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Well, i thinks that port is at least close to the size ofthe stock port, so i think it could handle more than stock pressure, since many people go higher hp than stock, and retain the original bpv. Another option, would be to add a second port, and use double bpv's. But i think it would be...

I cut an inch of the crossover pipe, and put a new bead on it. Mine came withe the hks type mount. I bought it from Driftmotion. I highly doubt that they sell just that one pipe, but you could always just order an hks aluminum mount of Ebay, or wherever.

Well, i guess you need to port match the intake manifold to the new size of the TB, but that's not too bad.

Interested to see your results. I would be up for this service.

Yeah, I would lean towards clutch/ flywheel noise, or exhaust, if it's louder when in the car.

I don't believe that it does, but you can either drill and tap it in, or use a gte thermostat housing.

So...Where's the video?

Nice writeup. I had to mod my compressor outlet pipe by about 2", due to my aftermarket turbo and manifold placement. Also, I created some mounts on the top, going straight into the crashbar. But my lower mounts look a lot like yours. Also, I had to relocate my overflow bottle to...

I assume that they'd work in anything that takes top feed injectors with oem Denso-sized fuel rail openings. These are low impedance, like 87-88 turbo 440's.

Thanks, Bryan. And since you asked... Synapse R35V. Off with the HKS SSQV(Hong Kong Singapore Somewhat Similar-Quality Valve), on with the HKS adapter: R35, installed on the piping: Installed on the car: And a quick vid:

Thanks for the birthday wish. And thanks also for bumping my thread back from the dead! Didnt realized that its been a month and a half since i posted on it. Thats the problem when your funds and time gets diverted away from your Supra.

Another issue that can cause boost cut and a slower spool is boost or exhaust leak.

Good job, man. Let us know your experiences with it.

My shop cut mine down to 45mm.

When you turn off the car, do you hear a sound from the idle control valve a second later? I describe the sound as....'Ducka-ducka-duck". That's the valve resetting.

Can you video the hesitation?

Looks like a good start to the build, and very similar to my parts list(except for valvetrain).

My only other guess would be Marlin Crawler, since they rebuild those things constantly. Oh- PS: Aren't the GM AR-5 transmissions quite similar? Just a thought.

If your FPR is weak, then less fuel will go to the injectors, and more will go back to the tank.

All in all, it does sound like a bad radiator cap could cause this issue. Lets hope, at least.