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I'm doing some porting now on my spare head. Got two of the cylinders done; unshrouding valves, smoothing cc, and flush grinding the intake valve seats. I Don't expect much, but like the guy said- it's free(not including all the dremel bits i've bought.)

Well then, I suggest the following: trd springs, tokico 5ways, st swaybars and a full urathane bushings with 17''x9.5 rear and 8.5 front wheels. Aside from that, you might want upper/lower front and rear frame braces, and put the car on a diet- I.E.: remove the spare tire, unused seats...

I thought it was an RX7.

LMAO! You just said that the Supra handles like Sh!t compared to what you're used to, and then proceed to compare it to a car that is 10+ yrs newer, 500+lbs lighter, and has a complete aftermarket suspension and tire/wheel package... Huh? Everything that you've put into that MR2 is exactly...

Suspension Techniques or Whiteline swaybars, Eibach, RSR, or H&R lowering springs(in order of higher to lower stance), with Bilstein, Koni or KYB struts(in order of higher to lower price). You'll be happy. You can, of course spend MUCH more on adjustable coilovers(HKS, TEIN, Megan Racing...

You have a clogged cat. peace out.

That's pretty much it. Are you manual or auto? If manual, you can keep the W58 5spd, but I'd recommend a heavy duty disc on the clutch.

agreed

It might be a wiring issue to the TPS... HTH

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis36200.html This tool's description also says "push or tap to install" Does it work that easy?? I just removed all of my valvetrain in about 20 minutes, using the magnet-in-the-sparkplug-socket trick with great results. But I'm not sure of the easiest way to...

Oh, I don't think I need 550's as far as my power goals are concerned, at least not yet. I would like to get about 350rwhp. I'm just trying to figure out a safe way to keep my max boost around 15psi without hitting fuel cut. I currently hit FC around 13psi.

I had a question about injector sizing: 1. If the stock fuel pressure is say, 38 psi at idle, and I up it with my AFPR to 48, that's an increase of ~25%. Does this mean, that I can safely switch my MAFT to the 550cc injector setting(a 25% increase), even though I'm using the 440 injectors...

I'm imagining its the set that bolts to the intake, under runner #6.

Yeah- the leak won't be open at anything other than positive boost. Pull all of your rubber intercooler hosea. You'll find a bad one.

I have had material welded into the keyway before, no problems. We welded up some material into the 'smoothed' side, then used a die grinder to cut the wall vertical again. It made a VERY strong weld, and held up perfectly. The best part, of course, is you don't have to remove the crank or the...

Verify that that spark valley is completely clean. If there is any oil/ water in there, the plug wire will ground/ spark to the cylinder head, instead of the spark plug. HTH

Honestly, it sounds like the timing is waay off, and that with the EFI fuse in, it's creatin cumbustion that works against the engine's normal rotation, and that would explain why it cranks easier without the EFI fuse in. As for how this happened, I only have one possible explanation: The CPS is...

Dude- I might be in touch with you about that in a couple of weeks. :icon_bigg

I think that they are all the same. And I think that the only safe way to loosen the clearances is by swapping shims.

Those are the pistons I bought for a cheap rebuild- Don't have them in yet, so I can't say about them. PS- The top is anodized. Don't know how well it holds up, but I was reading on a couple of sites that some manufacturers do this to reduce the effects of detonation. I guess it reduces some of...