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Although you say you've timed the cps correctly, I suggest you try starting it with the cps tightening bolt out. Try moving the cps to an extreme retard position, and then an extreme advance position, and see if that affects wether or not the engine 'catches'. If it starts, check the cps...

You mean- can the -89 wheel be replaced for an 89 wheel? Yes. But to get the cruise control buttons to work, i think you need the 89 combination switches also, as well as at least one splice for on/off into the dash switch harness.

Worn rod bearings, worn main bearings, low oil level, worn oil pump, weak oil pump bypass spring, weak oil squirter bolt springs, and as mentioned above, BHG. Have you checked the integrity of your oil- IE; is it just oil or now an oil-coolant mix?

You put the head on the block without the rear cover or the front cover? The rear cover(the one that shoulda been decked) HAS to be on the engine to run it. Just wanted to clarify that. As for removing it, machining, then reinstalling, it might be possible with the head on, if it was loosened...

LOL.... "this Tony guy..." ..."maybe he'll get sponsors"....LMFAO...

The cars have to be within a certain rpm range during the test, i beleive. What I've done before(and successfully), is to hook the vac reference line to the egr valve directly to the vac source off the throttle body, and bypass the vsv, thus providing some egr activity at all rpms. It actually...

Wondering if your egr is working. Sometimes the pressure reference line gets completely blocked with crapola. Happened to me. Test it per the tsrm.

I have the upper one, but no lower ones. Anybody got a pic of these installed?

Jutting out somewhat- like this. Pardon my hackjob in MS paint.

Did you ever test the cap? It seems like a logical next check.

Damn- i never had the turbo side brace- Does it mount to the underside of where the turbo mates to the manifold? I saw two bolt holes there, and one of them has a sheared-off bolt in it.

And in a worst case scenario, a rebuilt caliper for our cars is actually pretty cheap. $20.79 on Rockauto.com edit- oops- that's the closeout price for the left one- you need the right.

T-1 aka- 3mm. You'll need 13 indicator led's, one display and 16 backlight led's. DON'T apply more than ~3volts to them if you test em.

I like the first one, too, but would it be possible to render it with a lip that extends forward maybe an inch? Like a Kaminari, but not as large.

yes, in post #3. Make sure the caliper is not seized on that side, and that the pads are seated in the caliper properly. Happened to me once, and the rotor started glowing. Didn't pull much to the side, though.

Hells yeah. and in red, too.

You want an mcd that is actually lower than most that are sold. Having said that, Some of the ones sold at Radio Shack are actually too weak, like 10mcd. You want about ~400-1,000 mcd for the led's, in my opinion. Most on Ebay are in the 4,000 to 15,000 range and will totally blind you. You...

Same here, and you'll NEVER get the right led's at Radio Shack. They only have like two T-1's in stock, and they'll be the wrong luminosity. Go Hong Kong or Mouser electronics. PS- T-1 3/4's are the wrong size.

Don't feel bad- I drove up there for a bumper that I didn't get. ; )

I plan to be there again, but won't be embarrassing myself on the track again. :: no ::