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Well, it'l clunk before I even get the car moving- as soon as the clutch engages the drivetrain.

So, I jacked up the car and tried to flex everything. First, I made sure I had no cracks in the subframe. Looks good. Then I tried moving each halfshaft with the parking brake set. Not a mm of movement on either. Then I tried the driveshaft. About 1mm, but i had to use a prybar to do it. I...

NO seafoam! If you're trying to get it to start for the first time since the rebuild, the problem is most likely.....drumroll..... THE CPS is out of alignment!!!! Yay- I got to say it again! Even if you think you've got it aligned perfectly, it may be off by one tooth. OR, you may...

How bout a combination of Razo's nice spoiler with a little fwd lip action? The lip's upper edge would be the lower surface of the brake ducts. Could that be done?

Too bad its not an R154- you could watch it work/ not work thru the inspection cover. Since it is a W58- make sure you have the shift fork locked into the realease bearing, and not resting outside of it. This would cause your exact problem I think.

My driveshaft is a DSS (driveshaft shop) aluminum unit with HD u-joints. And no- none of my boots are torn on the halfshafts, and that's why I'm perplexed. In fact, the halfshafts look almost new, even though they have 326,000+ miles on them. I guess I'll crawl under the car and try moving...

What he said- but I'm guessing alot of heat comes through the tranny tunnel wall. As air passes over the engine and gets heated, I imagine alot of it gets, well....tunneled through the tunnel.

LOL! Bombinuass- quotin' the TSRM like a baller! Oh, and to be of some benefit- Autozone- Felpro #35385. $2.99

I searched for 'clunk', but came up with nothing. I've been getting a noise from the rear end for a little while now, noticeable when changing from reverse to first, or when shifting. I replaced the diff with another one(also because the pinion seal was leaking), but it didn't change the sound...

I don't think the pilot bearing could cause this. And why would you think you don't have the pilot bearing in?? Did you take it out? Does the clutch feel normal? Have you bled it? Anyway- you said you know you put the disc in properly. How do you know that? which side is facing the flywheel?

Agreed. But like i said- The Kaminari look was pretty decent, I just don't want the lip to extend THAT far. Granted- we're talking about a bolt-on lip, not a full bumper replacement. Someone photoshop a forward lip on the stock bumper, please?

My BOV stopped working not too long ago. Found out it was the vac line disconnected at the PS pump. That one becomes the hard line that crosses your lower timing cover, and feeds the entire vac rail.

Umm, personally, I'm not feeling the Haloween thing. Maybe for those travelling east to get to Commerce, we can meet up somewhere to roll in together?

Great work. Looking fwd to more pics.

Actually, i like stock, I just think it needs to be a bit more....macho.

PS- If you drop the boost, it'll lower the chances of detonation AND spark blowout, so it's NOT a decisive indicator of detonation or not. I doubt you're detonating at 15psi on a stock turbo. Also- make sure you have no shorting of your plug wires to ground. This has happened to me a few times...

Yeah, I've said it before- I think an aftermarket large core radiator is a great peace-of-mind upgrade. Any leaks in your cooling system will allow the coolant to boil over due to lack of system pressure. Also check the condition of the two 90 degree hoses- one on the front of the head, one on...

All MSD systems switch to single fire at higher rpms, IIRC. They may help with emissions and efficiency at low rpms.

Amen.

The Pacesetter was a crap design. I had two of them- one in black painted and one in ceramichrome. When the black one was installed, the mechnic found that the collector at the bottom necked-down internally to about 1.25 inches across! He cut it out and fabbed a new collector for me. The o2...