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Also, learn about checking your codes. The Toyota diagnostic system from the 80's isn't exactly high tech by today's standards, but will certainly lead you down the correct path of problem solving, rather than just buying parts and hoping they help...

Whatup, Playa? PS- Piratetip- Looks like you and I both joined, same month back in 2005.

Boom. Problem solved. Or, at least one problem solved.

On the factory pulley, I think that there are two m8 holes drilled into it that aid removal. I would expect that you could mount to those.

So have you checked to see if there is actual spark?

Nice to see that you got to the finish line on your project. So many of the builds go unfinished on here, including mine! Mine's past the 4 year mark. Time to complete it.

Sounds like it's time for new wires. In the meantime, take a known working wire and plug, and connect them to the Cylinder 5 coil. If there's no spark, you may have a dead coil.

As I recall, it's on the drivers side, right above the tranny mount.

Welcome to the end of the forums. As large a library as this is for information, there are very few contributors these days. Sadly, Facebook forums have taken most of the traffic away from sites like this, and Supraforums.com Your best friend here, is the search tab at the top right. With it...

Yellow/black should be your oil pressure sensor, below the cps.

Any updates?

They should. EGR parts are the same for all years. And removing the egr system doesn't change power at all, since it only operates at part throttle.

Yes, I would think you'd want the JDM tb if you're going without egr. Ideally, you would also want the JDM ecu.

Looks like a 7M intake manifold, but probably JDM, since the throttle body lacks the pcv tube, and the egr port is blocked off. The uninstalled throttle body is a standard USDM unit.

Rest up! And good luck with the project.

I just filled with something easier. :)

Looks amazing. I shudder to think how much money this project will end up being, since you're using so many oem parts. Not that it matters. :)

Well then, I would take off the intake valve cover, and specifically check the valve shim clearances on #1 and 6. Since you're at TDC, this would mean that #1 intake valves have closed for the beginning of the combustion event, and I'm pretty sure that #6 intakes would be just about to open for...

TDC at the crank can be wrong. After so many years and heat cycles, the crank pulleys are known to have the outer ring separate from the rubber isolator, causing it to slip back a bit, and give a misleading TDC indication. Verify true TDC by the #1 piston height. Remove the spark plug and insert...

Oops- I forgot to mention: I ended up replacing my 12 year old CSF aluminum rad, because it developed a couple of very slow leaks. Also, I bought new inner and outer tie rods, since they were rusted together and couldn't be adjusted. Also, new rack boots because the old ones were torn, And...