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Go for the smallest bore size that will give you clean straight bores.

SH: I'd go for a new Slave and Master so you can ignore the clutch for the next 15 years or so ;)

There are only so many pics of the round headed one about ;)

Would have been better with the stop lights unplugged ;)

Nate: Neg ;) Joel: LOL yep!

Justin: This is assuming the bores aren't pitted.... :( (most are, brake fluid by nature is hygroscopic)

I'd do all the hydraulics for the clutch and maybe a stainless flex hose while doing the job! Some good quality fluid will help as well!

I thought the rods were different as well! (99% on this but it might be the vvti ge that got the small rods only.)

The rpm will drop a little as you turn the wheel at idle! It's just an air bleed.

Way back I had an ex Army SWB 1962 Landrover with a 327 SBC, it was a total pile of junk but very very fast! ;) Got laughed at at the street races a few times until I ran it! (a few very embarrased GT Falcon drivers)

:ttiwwp: ;)

There's a support panel under the Hood that hits the corners when you try to close it if the rad is too tall!

Can't see how..... The hood seals along the Rad Support panel.

Thanks! :) And now for the Soccer/Football fans! (nws)

Aaron: LOL you could buy 10 and run without a WG ;)!

:cool: <Matt in shades!

You a postman? ;)

LOL maybe he means "Follower"?

And to add to the discussion "Torsen" ;)

1.05 Hot isn't so much of a problem I thought they had the 1.15 AR Housings? (I read that it says 1.05) If it's 1.05 with a big arse wheel that's another story though.