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its still your car when you put it on the road, you even have an official statement from your local government, stating you own it. you can drive you car spilling gas off road because theres no law in "off road" conditions. if your riding a quad around in some local trails and its not running...

:bigthumb: glad i could help!

Doesnt make sence to me, if you didnt have a registration or plates how would they identify a speeding car? getaway car? as far as i kno (and i could be wrong) you have to register the car, it has to have some form of inspection, and has to have some form of license plate to be legal to drive...

you could jump the Fp and B+ terminals in the diag box to turn on the fuel pump. then get in the car after the pump runs for a second or two and try to start it. then you could see if thats the problem. easier then installing a gauge.

definatly in for the video. a good launch and WOT run to maybe third gear to see how well if shifts.

does it fully reduce the usual delay from using the shifter to upshift? or is it almost instant. for instance, if your in first gear in it to win it and its at 6k when you push the button, does it shift at 6k? or does it shift at like 6500 because of the delay?

any way to leave the converter lockup on the factory schedule when in manual mode? or do you have to controll that aswell?

are you runing a stall? how high? how do you think a stock unit will hold up using IPT blue friction clutches and a 3krpm stall?

whoops. it looked like by saying "overpowering your clamping force" you ment, having too much clamping force. oh well.

you can never have too much clamping force on the clutchpacks. if anything the more the better. heat in the tranny fluid is the biggest killer aside from enough power to break parts or force the clutches to slip. tranny fluid at 180 degrees F will last about 2-4 times longer then the same fluid...

i remember always hearing people saying walbro pumps failing, is that due to the 2 stage voltage? or from running at full 12 volts at all times?

based on my 1/4 mile ET/MPH im running in the ballpark of 290whp, i have a bone stock 170-XXX mile tranny with only the accumulators shimmed and it runs fine. i also have a small cooler in front of the radiator. do the accumulator shimming, get a big cooler and a thermostat and you should be...

...and would more likely be the way you would want to go bieng you want to break 9's like its your job.

import performance trans sells a tranny thats rated for 9,90 runs, its ~2700 but i dont think it comes with a converter. judging only by my 1/4 mile ET/MPH im guessing im currently in the ballpark of 290Whp, on a stock A340e besides the accumulator mods and its holding up pretty good. i want...

witch way are you going? auto or manual? auto would be easier to go fast, but would be more expensive, manual would be cheaper to go fast but ultimatly not hold up. post up your plans, id love to see them especially if your going automatic, i might have to steal a few ideas. if i sound like...

just a little comment on the higher stall converters. they usually go for about 450, not ~200. ive called around to a few places and its all in the mid 4 range. i called hughes, pro-torque, IPT and another place i dont remember the name and they all wanted around 450 to rework the stock...

you guys are making it sound so easy. lets see how many engines it takes. how old are you guys just out of curiosity? i could see just the engine including management, tuning equipment and all nessisary parts including turbo and manifolds bieng in excess of 10g's. if you got what it takes by all...

how much money do you have to just rebuild the engine every year becasue you feel like it. unless by rebuild you mean take it apart, check every thing out and put it back together. 700 horsepower is quite a bit, for a first goal.

Im also looking for better handeling/Grip in turns for my beast. i drag and i turn, so im thinkin something like a 255 or 265 would be better on say a 9 inch wheel for the front, and the widest DR's i could fit in the back. its a more of a street performer so im not going to be running slicks or...

when your driving down a streight road, swerve gently from side to side and see if the noise changes, that will tell if its wheel bearings. i doubt it is though, just disconnect the speedo cable from the tranny and see if it goes away