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As air is compressed it increases temperature. At 14.7 psi temprature will effectively double from compression only. The temprature will continue to rise from inefficiencies of the turbo and from everything else heating up. What is it peaking at? EDIT: I see the max and min. I'm suprised it's...

Does the car clear up eventually or just stay really rich?

Check the cold/post start tab for the cells that corespondent with your coolant temp at the time. More specificly check the decay time as you might have it set for longer then it needs to be.

In ms? Running 8860 no table. This ignitor a smart ignitor? Can't find anything anywhere. :(

The turbo they use has a different flange, theres nothing to leak there because its two separate holes in the flange on both the turbine housing and the downpipe. Seems like a little much for stock turbo and all that. I dont think it would be worth it. The stock internal gate regulates boost...

Lex AFM? Other then that looks like itll be rich from the bigger injectors, any time you mess with fuel or air delivery, you should have it checked out. Same goes for anything that changes the timing curve drastically.

Bueller??

**Check your anti lag settings, you have it set to turn on at 5550 rpm.** Remove throttle position from load source two. Do you have a wide band? you have the same/less amount of fuel from 1000rpm to 6000rpm. Baro compensation your pulling 100% fuel across the board. You have a shit load...

If you read my whole post I said unless it is warped or damaged. There is no need to replace the mechanical parts (head, block, pistons, rods, crank, ect.....) of that engine because there's milkshake everywhere. Again, Everything can be cleaned. Obviously your not going to rebuild an engine...

Try changing the "initial Open" setting to larger and smaller numbers to see if it changes the engine speed. Initial is the one you set the idle with, the Additional cold start is the one that wont change ISC position unless the engine is cold. Leave it set to Manual when playing around with it...

Pics?

Just clean it up, nothing in that motor cant be cleaned out. no need to replace anything, unless ofcourse its warped or damaged.

go prosport, it'll be more precise, and its new.

while on the topic is it important for the ISC to have coolant run threw it? for instance will it automatically compensate when cold? Or just for that anti frosting effect like the throttle body? Im asking unrelated to stock TCCS as im standalone but curious.

WTF tranny is that? EDIT: read the build, T56.

Any pics?

you have it set to stepper? Did you wire B+ to B1&2 terminals? could you post a picture of your setup screen?

Hows it working? (assuming it is)

Anyone?? Whats your settings for accelerator enrichment? i havbe it at 100% and still choking at throttle input. If i stab the throttle it goes coughs farts pops and dies violently. EDIT: Disregard, i had my timing set to locked, Should have checked operator error eariler!

Unless you can open it up and replace the reflective element or the optical sensor depending on witch is the problem it's impossible.