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Because you stated it failed the test I would believe so. What about the power to the coils? You could have a brand new ignitor but without power to the coils, You're still dead in the water.

This would also cause a serious oil leak at the timing cover.

A missing ground would appear as a possible incomplete circuit but power would still be visible at the coils. In my experience the ground strap on the coil packs is a redundant ground and doesn't effect engine operation. I have run N/A valve covers with no place to bolt the coil packs down and...

If your sure the transistor test was done properly then i would say its safe to say your ignitor is bad. The momentary continuity your supposed to be seeing in the ignitor is the trigger for spark. If you don't have that "switch" theres nothing triggering the coil, if the coil isn't triggered...

I admit, i only had the stock gauge to go by at the time, But at all driving conditions it always stayed the same. Im aware its not the most accurate gauge BUT the stock A/c Fan will come on if the coolant reaches 212F, I have never had the fan come on. Now im running a Mishimoto radiator...

just make sure you send it to the pump side of the connector and not the harness side of the connector.

Where don't you have power? The ignitor doesn't output power, it switches ground to trigger the coils. Check the resistance in the CPS coils and make sure its within spec, thats the only way to test it. If the coils are good, the only other CPS related issue would be the wiring witch is common...

The electronics bieng coated in oil should have zero effect on there performance, its all magnetic fields and the coils pickup the movement in the magnet. Get a Digital Volt Ohm Meter/Digital Multi Meter/Digital Volt Meter and check the resistances. if they have the proper resistance rebuild...

For some reason i feel the myth of removing the clutch fan for e-fans falls in the same category of not running a shroud or undercover. I feel if your car overheats without these items it has other underlying issues at hand. The stock radiator should be able to easily keep engine temps down...

German Castrol is a different type of oil compared to other Castrol synthetics. Its very good oil. Its something to do with the base stock used. J-dub is FAR more knowledgeable then i am on this subject, but thats the basic of it. Though you need to experiment on oil weight, every motor...

Many of these with there age leak oil. There is an exellent writeup on how to rebuild it that I have personally followed and found it very simple. Did you ohm out the coils? If they check good you should be good to go functionality wise.

If the cps is working you will get spark, whether its properly timed or not, youll have spark.

Toyota, Only place that will really have it. Why do you need a new one, you can rebuild the used ones to almost new condition.

I just realized we have the same goals and same equipment. Oh yea, end of the world thread.......*walks away*

Maybe he wanted to catch a video of window making on a 2j block.

It could be, do a check for leaks it couldnt hurt. Though nature of turbos is a whistling noise. Either way will work well enough, your method could help find very small leaks because it might be a little quieter.

Well if you think about it, it's fitting, smal and feminine compared to the big Powerful 7M. :biglaugh: On topic, the problem is when you ask "for free". Begging for parts is one thing, but saying can someone do this for me for free is rude and obnoxious. Flame away on this guy.

Thanks man. Poodles: I would hope so but I've heard of those replicas weighing in at like 30+lbs.

Anyone on that weight? 17x9 preferably.