Push a piece of coal up your bum and wait 1000 years and you'll get a Diamond ;) (man you're so tight sometimes)
If it's in any way in doubt just replace it it's not like the Belt is expensive compared to a tow when it does break.
^ Yep lightly loaded at high enough rpm so there is enough Oil volume to fill the increased clearence the knock will go, load the motor slightly and it'll displace the Oil wedge and knock some more.
There is also a point in the rpm band unloaded where it'll cancel out and be quiet free...
Small orifice/restriction isn't it?
(never owned a GTE so nfi really)
I use RTV and don't have leaks
In the Old days I never had leaks using Cork gaskets either.
Nick: The 1/2npt part is fine.
The 1/2" 90 elbow is equal to an extra 10 feet of 1/2" hose restriction wise.
I try to use 90 sweeps if possible and went to -10 for all of my Oil cooler/filter fittings.
(you still need to add 370 Lb's to be like me ;) )
Mike: Brian started offereing as an option a couple of years back, from memory he's using an EDM to do the notches.
7M notch will be at an angle to spray the thrust side of the bore like the stock holes.
Cool at least the bores will get oiled by the block squirters.
I was a bit worried by this using the Pauters as they don't have the Oil holes either, I made sure my idle pressure was enough to open the squirters around idle.
Pauter now offer notches in the big end flanks to preform this...
Dunno I suspect it may puke out of the vent in the top of the case under acceleration.
If I was going to run a G series fast again I'd be running a pump and cooler and dump the oIl back in between the 2 front bearings to be safe.
I changed to 3.5:1 gears in the 9" to slow the shaft/pinion...
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