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probably a bit like the Type II... it's functionally the exact same BOV (same main assembly), but without the smaller valve and whistle insert... mine isn't vented, so I'm not sure what it would sound like vented...

shouldn't be pulling the head if you did it right the first time :sarcasm: if you get the ARP studs you'll be able to drop them into that spt and see if it clears and probably be able to contact ARP and order 2 more studs with hardware if needed...

lol, gonna be another thread like IJ's where he blows things up and fixes it so something else can blow up...

well, if he can make molds for the molds he could reproduce it fairly easily...

most of the pre shaped hoses you can get from a parts store for cheaper than the dealer... what he ^^ said for the oil cooler hoses

steering wheel, door handles (both the one to open the door, and the grab handles to close it), armrests.... just sit in your car (well, since it's in pieces, someone else's car) and rest your hands around where they would be and see what you'll touch. It's not a whole lot, but flaking paint...

I got ripped on my car, but it WAS the exact combo I was searching for... $6K is reasonable for a good condition car in my eyes...

I run a slightly modified stock heatsheild, it helps a lot... mine's not a BIC....but they're functionally the same. Getting the damn first cat out of the engine bay helps a LOT...

nothing... in fact my IC pipes are heavier than stock... same with my swaybars... My wheels are a hell of a lot lighter than the stock saws though... same with the DDP compared to the stock elbow and DP...

KicknAsphlt: clearcorners.com there is also a guy in Europe making the bubble lenses in clear, don't think he did the normal flat ones though...

better dampeners and springs would help. the stiffer you make everything else, the more supple something else has to be to restore ride quality...

E85 on a GTE would still make more power... bang for the buck, the Turbo will beat the N/A's ass anyday of the weak... I'll never understand why people are "scared" of turbos. It's got a SINGLE moving part and if it fails, 9/10 times it won't do any damage. That other 1/10 it throws...

ditto on the green LED's...

no, seriously, high powered LED's (like the first ones used for headlights on prototypes) would get too hot and overheat... they had small fans to keep them cool...

flex section SAVES the exhaust manifold studs, it's worth it... I dunno, I like both, wish I could get a cutout or something to flip between a full DDP and rerouting it...

the only reason the nighpager setup never took off is the rotor issue IMHO... if it was a simple bolt on without needing machined parts it would be far better... not to mention arz's kits aren't much more expensive and are arguably better...

best link EVER and explains why the I6 layout is so great...

no, only an intelligent owner can do that...

if the headlight relay sticks, you will have highbeams on ALL THE TIME, they won't turn off (even if the lights go down) I had to jump my lights this way until I found the issue. It's the integration relay. It's a blue box... (no comments on girly hands or anything :biglaugh: )

dunno about you guys.... I prefure the 89 model year because it has the best steering wheel... airbag wheel FTL... not to mention the small center console and flip up compartment because of the airbag computer... If it was imported from japan, sure, I'll take a 93 please.... I'd love...