If you overfill you'll blow the rear seal. Put the car on 4 jackstands on a level surface, pull the fill plug first, then pull the drain plug. Once it's empty, replace drain plug, fill through shifter hole until it comes out fill plug then replace the fill plug and put the shifter back in...
When on earth would you need a new rotor? Stock rotors last damn near forever and you're looking at something that's HUGE.
Like I said, they're readily available directly from wilwood, and if you damage the rotor to the point where you can't use it, I'm willing to bet the car won't be in any...
On those bolts I think he's fine cutting, but on the other end the bolts hold the bracket for the exhaust hanger.
Depending on how tight time is, use PB Blaster and soak them and let it sit overnight. There is better stuff out there (that JJ has mentioned), but Blaster is the best stuff I've...
Not trying to sound like a dick, but this is all in the TSRM and doing a clutch on an R154 has to be done EXACTLY as stated in the TSRM or it will fail...
Read the manual so you don't mess anything up.
You're not listening.
The third valve cover gasket (that metal thing you put in there) when it's NEW seals the oil galley plugs. Without the rubber there to seal, it WILL leak out into the spark plug wells and you WILL get misfires from it.
It also will seal correctly when it's in good...
Gonna cross post this so people can get their facts straight on the wilwood calipers.
Also, Satan, the arz kit would probably be ideal for you as the parts are readily available from wilwood themselves, and not to mention you're not going to destroy one of their rotors nearly as easily as an...
Use Redline MT-90....it doesn't smell like gear oil (thank god)
On a side note, BE CAREFUL with the boots, if they get ripped you're screwed and heat/smell will leak in easier.
The stock vacuum line is a large line that's on the front of the intake manifold (uses pipes and stuff to go under and then up through the lower intake manifold then across in front the 3000 pipe).
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