Search results

Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, and Castrol SynTec are all Group III oils...extensively hydrocracked dino oil base stock to be precise. Group III by definition is not a synthetic oil...the companies get away with marketing it as such because they use "synthetic technology" to produce the base...

IMO you have several potential things going on: - You do have a drain back problem...the oil pump pressure line is a candidate. The oil pressure relief valve on the pump is a possible cause. The oil filter may not have (or is not working) an anti-drain back valve. - Use a 5W-30 or 0W-30...

What weight/type (syn?) oil are you using?

That's stealth! :eek3: Outta the way maggots...IJ's coming! LOL!

IJ - sad as it may be...people think that exact thing. The above posts are a case in point....it's just not true. Thicker oil will not stop a leak. Fixing the seal, gasket, or O-ring will though ;)

Check your timing...sounds like the CPS was installed off a tooth or the timing belt is off a tooth.

Don't you think it just might be a better idea to fix the cause of the leaks? Of course, on a old motor it really doesn't matter...might as well hasten it's demise and put it out of it's misery. I would like to know one thing though...how do you figure 20W-50 gives you added heat protection...

It's not hard, but is time consuming. Nothing special, but you will need a 19mm deep socket and breaker bar for the crank pulley. And a torque wrench that goes to 195 ft/lbs ;) If that's a JDM motor and it has the same timing belt it cam with, I'd replace it. Check the rest of your belts...

Might as well change the timing belt & check the tensioner while you're there ;) Assuming it's got a lot of miles on it.

Call Comp Cams direct...they are $31.92 for 12 http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=975-12&Category_Code=SPRNGSI

^^^ LOL! Does it go fast? ;)

CEL is "Check Engine Light"...follow JJ's advice on the idle problem. He is the site expert on the stock ECU...pretty sure he knows what he's talking about ;) You may have a small boost leak causing problem #3. Check all your piping from the turbo to the throttle body. However, 7 psi is...

Make sure you can get the glass...none of the local glass replacement companies in Phoenix stocked or could get the glass. Had to order it from Japan via the dealer...took 3 weeks to get here. I was very happy the insurance company paid for this one!

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=851 ;)

Ordered a driveshaft from Jaws myself. You measure from the outside edge of the seal inside the tranny housing (where the spline shaft fits) to the flat flange on the LSD where it bolts up.

Live and learn ;) The gasket kit is the way to go...and replacing the valve seals is a good decision too. PM me your name/address and I'll mail you a new turbo to manifold gasket.

Rich - I understand...a higher spring pressure is not going to hurt a thing. Actually desirable IMO. Just pointing out the TRSM spec for using as a comparison vs the BBC springs ;) IJ - LOL...they better be! At the rpm you can run that motor at, last thing you need is valve float!

TRSM, Page EM47, step 13c http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=47 Ya got me on the chevy springs...they are BBC ;) BTW - got a set of TRD springs on my motor...measured out at 47 lbs iirc.

Looks like one of the auto tranny connectors...does your car have a manual swap?

The stock springs are 35 lbs seat pressure...the SBC springs are 55 lbs. Take a look at the MKIII Tech page posted above by Shaeff ;)