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Just to be on the safe side, I'd change the oil and filter again...it takes very little coolant in the oil to damage the bearings. Cheap insurance IMO.

Wow! For 180,000 miles, that is the best union bolt I have ever seen come out of a head ;) Nice job!

Same IMO. The trick with the studs is to place the head on the block deck 1st using the 2 index pins for alignment. Put the stud washers in the each hole (do this prior to putting the head on) and then thread the studs in from the top of the head finger tight. I put ARP moly lube on both...

Using a cooler on a turbo motor is just good practice IMO. The turbine housing transfers a huge amount of heat directly to the center section...the oil running through not only lubes, but cools the turbine bearings. No cooler and the hot oil goes back into the pan. Hard driving is not the...

The article is correct...studs are a better choice for the 7M. However, either will work and provide the clamping force necessary for the HG.

Put the paintballs in the freezer :evil2:

It does hang down about half an inch...about even or slightly below the bottom of the sub-frame and cross frame support bar. To hit it without taking either of the above with it will be a remarkable case of extreme bad luck ;)

Glad I could help ;) These are a nifty valve for changing your oil. No leaks, no problems so far...it will be a while before the oil change. From moving it when I installed the valve, it can't help but be easy ;)

Yep...Red Line is excellent. It won't fix synchronizers that are going south though...no manual tranny oil will.

Fuel cut has nothing to do with the size of the turbo other than the amount of air it is capable of pulling through the AFM. The AFM determines fuel cut by the volume of air it senses...period. On a stock AFM, fuel cut will occur ~12 psi...with a Lex AFM it will happen ~18 psi. A MHG...

You put Lucas in your motor? Keep running that stuff and smoking will be the least of your problems. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

I'd start with plugs, plug wires, and coils. Here's the TRSM procedure for testing the coils: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IG&Page=12

I've been meaning to talk about this...just have not gotten around to it. Since it was really off topic in the other thread, I created this one. Keep in mind, this discussion is going to center around relatively stock 7M motors to those in the 400'ish HP range. You start building a motor for...

There are differences between an '88 and '89 body wise. The nose and tail is different, but the doors should fit. You will have to swap out the door wiring harness and mirrors. Main wiring harness and ECU is different. A lot of smaller mechanical parts will swap, but there's a big...

Congrats Man! I have a girl...she's 16 now. God truly has a sense of humor ;)

Don't candy coat it Nick...seriously, tell us what you really think. LOL ;) Either one of these cars would have to have extensive mods done to even come close to those prices. I can see asking $10K for a car with a motor pushing 500 HP (built right), but no way for a basically stock Supra!

Max boost? Till she blows ;) It's easier to drop the head on to the index pins, then thread the studs in from the top. Put the washers in each stud hole 1st and finger tight the studs. Torque to the ARP spec (80 ft/lbs) in increments per the TRSM pattern.

That pressure is good...leads me to believe your bearings are ok. BTW - Toyota filters are not that good. If you can get PureOne or Wix, either would be a better choice. The Toyota filter should not be causing a drain back problem though.

There will be a very small amount left in the motor. You want to drain old oil prior to storage to ensure minimum contamination/combustion by-product presence...no point in using expensive oil for this purpose. The oil Mattjk mentions below (SuperTech "synthetic" 5W-30) would be a good choice...

Mobil 1 uses Group III + AN base oils including polyalphaolefins (PAO)...however, the primary base stock is Group III. This is the last I have seen...that does not mean it won't change though ;) Keep in mind that Mobil 1 EP is their top-of-the-line...why would they change the EP line and...