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Now that you mention it JJ, it does look like oil. Bad cam cover gaskets perhaps? I'd still check that hose I mentioned above...if it's bad, you will have to get one from the dealer. Wouldn't engineer my own on that hose if I were you ;)

^^^ Yep...the one that goes from the big banjo fitting at the center, rear of the head to the hard line that goes around the block. If this hose blows, you will lose ALL of your coolant in a matter of minutes (happened to me). I'm pretty sure the resulting overheat is what caused my...

Mobil 1 is an excellent filter...synthetic media and stout construction. The K&N is similar, but uses conventional paper media. The difference is cost...a Wix or PureOne is just as good (or better) performance wise for less $$$. Yes, it should have. Appears to be a filter with a couple of...

Hmmm...here's several synthetic gear oils (no friction modifiers): Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4 Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4 Ford 75W-90 Synthetic Gear oil Amsoil MTG 75W-90 (Edit Mar 08 - Valvoline changed the spec on Valvoline SynPower 75W-85 gear oil...it is now a GL-5 75W-90 &...

Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil also contains friction modifiers and is intended for an LSD...same type friction modifiers as Royal Purple. It will be fine to use in an LSD, but not in a manual tranny...for the same reasons in post #7 above...

Not much you can do when you get a defective part...that happens with ALL major manufacturers, including Toyota. Hopefully Purolator will come through and stand behind their product. You guys that like Toyota filters...the new ones are made in Thailand. It's a mediocre filter at...

Four posts asking the same thing in three sections is going to get you nowhere...very poor etiquette :3d_frown: Try the online TSRM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ It's not rocket science...if you are not mechanically inclined, perhaps you should have a shop do it...

Hate to tell ya...1200 deg is not near high enough. It will likely flake (or burn) off regardless of what you do. I use a 2000 deg ceramic backed on a 500 deg.

TSRM Fluid Capacities

If you're interested in the way different filters are made, take a look at this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

That's where I had my auto built...they know what they are doing. They are located in Jersey. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/ Stock, an A340E is good for about 350 HP...even then, how long it's going to last is questionable if it has a lot of miles on it. After IPT got done with...

Running a quart over the full mark on the dipstick is not going to harm the motor. It will not cause seals to blow/leak and will not be high enough in the pan where the crank will "churn" the oil. It will help keep the pump pick-up covered...like what can happen in hard turns/breaking. And...

Flushing the old oil is generally not necessary, even switching to a syn oil...that is unless you are really picky ;) The amount of oil remaining in the motor is small, especially if you change the filter and drain the cooler. The volume of new oil will dilute that remaining to where it...

Rotella T syn oil is an excellent oil...if you read the API ratings, you'll see it's rated for gasoline engines as well. Sounds like you have leaky valve seals...bet you have quite a few miles on the bottom end (bearing wear) as well ;) In this case an 40W is appropriate IMO.

True, but over filling by 1 quart is not near enough to cause what you describe.

Yep...got a thread on this exact subject (using a 20W-50) in the SME section. Over filling by a quart will in no way cause leaks...neither will running a 20W-50. Like IJ said, there are no seals in the motor under direct oil pressure. Not a big fan of running thick oils, but for other reasons...

Per above, a 7M filter should fit. I like Wix or PureOne filters...the reason why is in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

Not really. The only thing you *may* see switching from a dino oil to a syn is leaks around the seals and only then if your seals are worn anyway. PAO or ester based syn oils do a really good job of cleaning engine deposits. If those deposits are the only thing keeping your seals from...

So does the 22R ;) The problem is when you go to a longer filter (for a bit more capacity) like I was talking about above...there's not enough room using the stock filter head/location. You have to have a remote filter mount.

Red Line 5W-30 is an excellent choice. I don't know what filter the 1J uses for sure, but if it's the same diameter/thread as the 7M, Wix and PureOne make a longer filter that will fit and almost doubles filter capacity...Wix 51342 and PL10241. You cannot use either of these on a stock 7M...