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It wasn't the cooler...the thermostat sends oil back to the motor until the oil reaches ~180 deg F. Coolant in the oil will cause damage to the bearings though. Perhaps the HG allowed coolant to seep into the oil passages to the head, but sealed around the cylinders? Were you using an...

I use GC, but I agree with JJ, if you can get Amsoil for near free I'd use that. I used the 0W-30 Series 2000 Amsoil for a while, but it made my valve train more noisy...your experience could well be different. If not the Series 2000, ASL 5W-30 would be an excellent choice as well.

Yes, the turbo needs to be disassembled and both housings are coated on the inside, but only the outside gets a final polish. The inside is "challenging" to coat properly. I do not coat center sections...too easy to damage the wheels. I prefer that the compressor/turbine housings are sent...

Thank you guys for the kind words. I'm very happy you're pleased with the work :) Your engine bay is looking superb Brandon! This is a 2000 deg rated, mil-spec coating...it will not turn gray on parts that do not get hot. On exhaust parts, it will turn a titanium gray, but will never...

Make sure you check the 100 Amp Alt fuse in the box behind the battery. Check the ECU fuse in the same box while you are there.

Not yet, but I've taken a couple of fluid samples...clean as new :)

Flushing an auto tranny is easy, but you will need a helper and 10-12 bottles of ATF Dex II. Just disconnect the feed line to the cooler and place in a pan big enough to hold 12+ liters. Start the car and verify ATF is flowing into the pan and add ATF through the dipstick tube using a tranny...

From Post #2: Not a good idea to use in a Supra tranny...way too thin. Use Red Line MT-90...much better choice if you want to use a syn tranny oil. The Pennzoil 80W-90 Tim is using above is a good choice as well.

14mm deepwell, 12 point, 3/8" drive. You will need a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for the torque wrench. ARP spec for torque on the stud nuts (using moly for lube) is 80 ft/lbs....don't go higher. Install the studs in the block finger tight.

Nah...clearly a case of a swap for Common Sense Inverter (CSI) :biglaugh:

Yikes! Changed...thanks! ;)

Couldn't have said it better myself Chris ;) Pete - if you are running a dual filter head, you are doing little to remove particulates below 20 microns...all you have done is increased the total amount of particulates your filters are capable of removing. If you want to filter down to less...

An excellent cooler...might be a bit small for your needs though. You could go with a larger one or get another the same size and hook it up in parallel configuration using T-fittings. Where you are measuring temps is after the oil has done it's job and absorbed engine heat (like you said)...

On which side is your oil temp sensor located on the sandwich plate...the feed to the filter/cooler loop or the return to the block? Also, what are the measurements of your oil cooler? And, what brand/type...fin & tube or a stacked plate?

^^^ Whole heartily agree... ;)

^^^ And the caps will be numbered from front to back ;)

Huh? The exhaust cam has the CPS gear on it, but you have to take the cam cover off to see it....it's on the passengers side.

I do a ceramic chrome for $25 a foot for piping up to 3" dia...both the inside and outside are coated. It's a mil-spec coating rated at 2000 deg...it does change to a titanium gray on exhaust parts (manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes, etc). However, it will never chip or flake below it's...

Yep! Could happen to just about any make of filter...except maybe the Canton Mecca :biglaugh: I'd use a PureOne...overall track record is excellent.

X2! Take pics...I'd like to add it to the filter thread ;)