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I think that the later models all had the same body harnesses, so the connectors would be there. Unsure of when that was, but it might have been 90+

A boost leak in the form of a leak at a coupler wouldn't show itself until under boost (unless it was compeletly disconnected). Letting in unmetered air after the AFM actually HAS been done. One of the local guys bought a car with an extra throttle body with a boost solenoid to open it. Was...

Side to side has the skirts, front to back doesn't. It's normal to a certain extent, has any of the machining been done?

Aww, that kinda sucks, was kinda looking forward to running VC and finding out how the character played a bit better. Then again, they kind of hinted at that as he starts with plate armor... What about a gamecard, will I need to buy one?

The MPH is pretty nice... You just need traction (or driver mod)

The Red S2 Supra in that last pic is FTMFW On that car, the wing works, like I said, it's balance...

Wiring diagrams are here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/

Stock gauge operates EXACTLY like an aftermarket electronic gauge. You can increase it's range easily, and you can also remove the electronics that dampen the motion (it will respond as quick as any other aftermarket electronic gauge). Info is here...

Nothing is connected to it on my car... and it's only on the driver's side.

Stock gauge is fine, it's just dampened and doens't read high enough for all of us (both are easily fixed with mods)

Pointless waste of money IMHO... There is no such thing as free power. In the dyno tests I've seen, you'll get MAYBE 5HP out of it, and you have to remember two things: - 5HP is within the deviation of the dyno - that was with the e-fans OFF, on it's a different story

I still say the whaletail looks like crap from behind. Every other angle looks great, but it doesn't flow with the body lines AT ALL from the back. Back of the supra is rounded, the whaletail makes it square (reminded me of a cressida). Someone find a pic of one from the back and you'll see...

If it's at zero, the engine isn't running or the sensor is disconnected. And you shouldn't get boost from free-reving...

Yep, he raced them, he was originally going to race the 240Z, but turned to the 2000GT (and if I recall correctly lost to a former employee that made BRE). I wouldn't say he had ANY involvement with the design of the car though, as it was a winning car in Japan before it came here. The 2000GT...

Foam tape is pretty cheap, go to a hardware store and find some. Many people have painted, chromed, or polished the covers as well...

MAFT-Pro tuning... might try asking in that part of the forums.

Holy crap LOL Then again, you are in New York... You'd have to comb through the wiring diagrams and go through the car to find out exactly WTF was done and how to get rid of the old out-dated alarm...

My BOV is vented and it stumbled for a day...hasn't missed a beat since. Used to have it recirculated but the hose wasn't staying on...

No, the brake booster really is that expensive... The online TSRM is from a later year and is lacking in some areas (good example is that it don't show the rebuiling of the A/C compressor) that the older ones do. Someone like jetjock that has an older TSRM might have such info...

The tail lights are also two piece and they can leak where they join (especially if the bolts where overtightened). Also, any cracks will let water in as well.