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The TSRM has a max of .10mm for head warpage: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=42 Removing .35mm to deck a head is quite a bit of material removal...either it has been decked multiple times or was warped past the above spec. I would have the cam journal...

Here's what I see for viscosity on the oils in question...I added a couple for comparison: Mobil Clean 5000 5W-30 KV @ 40 deg C = 62.2 cst, KV @ 100 deg C = 10.6, VI = 161 Mobil Clean 5000 5W-20 KV @ 40 deg C = 57.8 cst, KV @ 100 deg C = 8.5, VI = 156 Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 KV @...

Doesn't surprise me for the Canadian stores...it's interesting though that AutoZone here in the US (at least in FL) has current production GC. Perhaps they are not completely dropping it?

Correct...hence my comment on a bypass filter capturing "non-ferrous" particles. ;) There "should" be very little a magnet will catch in the filter...a magnet in the pan plug for motor oil is almost as useless. This is not like a tranny or differential that has no filter.

Do you have a dual pump set-up Jake?

That's current production ;) Considering we are on the 305th day of 2007!

If your filter is doing what it should, it's completely unnecessary ;) Particles less than 10 microns is not going to cause any harm to the motor...if you want to filter out particles in the 1-25 micron range, use a bypass filter. It will get the non-ferrous particles too ;) It won't hurt...

You can run a 0W-20 no problem...JJ has been doing so in his 7M for at least 6 months now. Several guys on the oil forum are running it in V8's and V10 Fords. The only caveat is the temperature extremes we experience here in AZ during the summer...it gets blazing hot outside and that is hard...

Stay away from covers made of nylon...when the wind moves the cover arround, it acts like a fine sandpaper ;) The one I have is made out of Technalon...multi-layered to help protect against denting too.

The voltage regulator is inside the alternator...sounds like yours is done. Take it by a parts store and have them test it on your way home.

^^^ Yep! Might as well upgrade the rad to a dual core too ;) I think he's taken care of the other stuff...I would cut the jiggle valve off the T-stat though to allow a small amount of coolant flow through the rad all the time.

5W-30 for the Red Line 0W-30 for the German Castrol (if you can get it at AutoZone) 5W-30 for Pennzoil Platinum

Jet engines do put stress on oil...it's just a different kind. Heat is the biggest factor, that's one thing jet engines put out way more than a car motor could ever imagine. That's why turbine oils use ester as a base stock, it can handle the heat. If you want the same thing in a motor oil...

The BC springs are in fact single as well...got a set right here ;)

Thought about this (got access to jet engine oil myself), but I wouldn't do it...here's why: - Turbine oils do not have the deposit and corrosion control problems motor oils have to contend with...varnish is the most significant contaminant in a turbine oil. Therefore the add packs are very...

Stainless hose has rubber or teflon lining...usually good to 300 degs or so. You manifold reaches temps well above that ;)

If you have a clogged radiator, you can flush it all you want and it will not correct the problem. Deposits will remain on the internal channels and will not show during/after the flush. They can only be removes by having the radiator rodded or you replace the radiator.

^^^ Excellent!

Hmmm...I'm thinking the whole idea of a set of cams has little to do with changing the way the motor sounds ;)

Not likely to significantly affect pressure...the turbo feed is between the #4 & #5 oil squirters inside the block. It goes from the turbo straight to the pan. The feed to the main and rod bearings (primary determiner of pressure) is at the front of the motor. What will happen is you will...