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Well, I figure a high jump is better than a pole vault...since a 1 piece is twice the un-jointed length of the stocker. Not that it's really going to matter if the driveshaft drops and catches the ground anyway...it was just a way to point out it's very, very bad. If you're not using a safety...

AF1JZ nailed it in post #7 with IJ's comments. The downside to the stock 2 piece is the rubber material in the aft shaft. In a Supra, the 2 piece (assuming it's well balanced) produces lower vibration due to the harmonics involved. Plus, (like figgie alluded to) if you bust a one piece...

There are several companies making single piece shafts for the Mk III...both in steel and aluminum. What would be an excellent option is a stock configuration 2 piece shaft without the rubber dampening material (it twists out on the stocker) and upgraded U-joints. A lighter weight, fully...

I don't think Lucas contains PTFE...it uses polymers in a 50 weight base iirc. As you can see from the above link, Lucas traps air creating an emulsion...not good. PTFE doesn't work as advertised, it expands when heated making the suspended particles larger, clogs your filter and forces it...

Sorry for the delay Jon...you know how it goes ;) Generally, there is no need to use additives at all...a well formulated oil has all that is needed. But to answer your question: MPZ appears to consist of soluble molybdenum, phosphorous, and zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP)...all are...

So who else can do this? Not me ;) http://www.metacafe.com/watch/887177/amazing_hammer_skills/

Hmmm...another twist ;) http://www.news.com.au/story/0,10117,20975555-29277,00.html

You've got the right idea ;) Most syn oils can go 8K easily between changes...I would change the filter at 4K and add make-up oil. RP has less additives, so it is possible it will have a shorter service life between changes...it will still go 5K easily. It's going to depend on the...

RP is a good oil...a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. However, RP is more slanted toward race applications and as a result does not have as good as an add pack as the oils I mentioned above. You can use it no problem...in fact, Supracentral...

Frank - I used a T-fitting on the feed to the remote filter head/cooler...I'm using stainless braided line and AN fittings. The temps shown are those after the oil has traveled through the motor. It basically shows max oil temp as a result. I'm thinking about adding another sensor post cooler...

Yep...the motor oil lessons by Dr Haas is eye opening ;) For those that may have missed it: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ There are numerous oils discussed in this section that will answer your questions (read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768), but here are...

Ummm...ceramic coatings (properly applied) do not "wear off" ;) Ever...

Mine are the adjustable ones.

And I have both Whitelines...samo on how long ;)

:3d_frown:

Not a big advantage for the Amsoil...Pennzoil has narrowed the difference down between Grp III and PAO to the point it really does not matter. The only thing I can come up with is PAO will take heat a bit better...might be helpful here in AZ. Having said that, I prefer a "true syn" oil for...

You need to learn some manners son :3d_frown: Looks like you earned a "time out"...enjoy.

A lot of other upgrades are way more worthwhile before you get cams...especially with a 300 HP goal. Even going to higher HP, extensive head work will pay off more, and is necessary to get the flow through the head cams will provide. Your $$$ are better spent elsewhere ;)

Hence the words "can induce" vs "will induce" ;)

An intentional one though :biglaugh: I'd use one that is recirculated back to the main pipe...a DDP to the atmosphere is a bit too loud for me. Also consider that a DDP can induce boost creep on a CT26...you'll have to enlarge the WG hole to keep it from happening.