Yeah I think it contrasts to much on the bright red. Its that color that makes it look darker than what it is. Atleast its all one shade, which is more than most can say for those tail lights. good job
Defense attorney says "When the customer took possesion of said engine, all peices were intact and undamaged."
My machinist told me no implied or expressed warranty. Just means that for what the motor is doing, its not built to last 200 million thousand miles. However its good to see that he...
If it were me and I wanted american I would agree with the F-body or fox body. Im not a fan boy either, but they have tons of aftermarket, they are cheap and end up sounding amazing! (dont tell my GM friends I said that).
That being said Ive always had the most fun in lighter cars and would...
If both bolts are on, then the exhaust manifold has to come off to access the bolt closest to the front of the engine. Or sit there for an hour with a box end wrench and have at it.
The rear bolt isnt obstructed by the manifold, atleast not when out of the car, so in not sure if a shock tower...
Congrats on the race. Ive been seeing this one viper in my town and I dont even want to try. I would have to hang my head from being killed so bad that I would need chiropractic work after..
Was that on your coilover setup? Those pics put you in the tiny niche of no body roll. lol almost unheard of in the community still.
With all the negative camber did you notice any effects on the drifting on the car, either good or bad? Maybe good cause it gave you more tire contact and more...
^^What a nice guy.
Even if the exhaust is inexpensive, it doesnt excuse poor fitment. I had a friend with too long of exhaust tips on his trucks, and I must have burnt my leg on those a dozen times. Its become a pet peeve of mine after experiencing that.
Why do so many order an exhaust in a box kit when you can buy the muffler you want and have an exhaust shop do it locally, make it fit great, guarantee against leaks and probably do it for less then even this kit?
I think I would check the wastegate/DP clearance before I went wild with a die grinder. Most people seem to just adjust for the spike and lower thier boost presssure so when it does spike it stays under fuel cut.
Unplug the timer and see if you still get the drain. If you dont plug it back in and see if changing grounding positions changes anything. That would be my best guess on where to start.
Without dissasembeling the turbo, whats the best way to clean out the mess created by a spun bearing that could have been sucked up into that turbo?
Pressure washer? Or just flush the turbo with fresh oil? If so normal or reverse flow for the flush?
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