I used to know guys with big block V8s that would do this kind of thing. The idea being that on the hard drag runs, the thermostat was too much of a restriction in the coolant circulation. Removing the thermostat supposedly allowed things to cool more and faster.
But even those guys would...
So... Basically no thermostat at all then.
I had mine stick open. It was horrible. The car would only ever warm up if it was freaking HOT outside. When the weather turned cold, it wouldn't warm up at all.
Now this is an interesting possibility.
I am looking for ~350rwhp, maybe up to 400, and an upgraded CT can do that, but it does seem that spending a bit more now can make a higher goal LATER possible.
I try to upgrade things under the principle that the cost of cheap equipment is the cost...
This is a tempting offer, but I think I'm going to see what I can do for other upgrade options. The upgraded CT26 sounds like good bang for the buck, but there seems to be too much probability of a "bang" for my paranoid nature.
So far, the turbonetics option seems to be promising...
Okay, so the SAFC allows less fuel too. That I didn't know.
And the BOSS turbo is $2000 with the ceramic ball bearings, and all the bells and whistles. With that, I'd hope to put down more than 450 RWHP, and have room to spare. $1600 gets the version without the extra goodies, though still...
I'm not sure I know what I need the WB for I figure that a WB is good for tuning on a dyno, but for driving isn't it just a pretty gauge for the passenger to watch? I would plan to have the car checked, if not tuned on a dyno. Once dialled in, do I really need a WB from that point on?
The...
Great idea in theory, but harder to do in practice. What I (think I) need is someone in the States who is willing to be a middleman for me. Someone who can receive the core turbo, look it over and ensure that seems suited for upgrade, then send it in, with a return address to get it to me...
Okay, I'm going to more or less clone the "How do I get to 350 RWHP" thread, but looking from my perspective.
The same: Similar goals.
The difference: My stock turbo is in good shape, and I don't want to yank it out to send it for an upgrade.
The "twist": Shipping a CT26 over the...
Okay, I'm in the same boat here. I want to upgrade my daily driver, so it needs reliability, but I'd sure like to have some get up and go, more than the stock turbo is going to allow.
I've pretty much dismissed the eBay turbos. Sure they're inexpensive, but it's hard to get much real...
Most of the frame of the car will never be visible. You can safely assume that the car isn't meant to be seen without the interior in place, so doing the floor, underdash area, or anywhere else that is normally covered by permanent panels is, IMO a waste of paint. Toyota painted that area to...
That looks very familiar to me. I did something similar, but left the 4" speaker alone, using the 6.5" only for midbass.
This left me with a 3 way setup in the front. I also removed the rear speakers, as I found that it just makes the sound worse.
I sold off those map pocket pods some...
Performance: Well, with a turbocharger, the less restriction that there is after the turbine, the easier it is to make the turbine do work. This does mean increased performance, but it's a law of diminishing returns, too. A 3" exhaust isn't a whole lot of restriction. I'll be (hopefully)...
It's not like the oil pan is a high pressure location. Pop a plug in 'er and be done with it. I'm sure that there are better things that you could spend your money on,
I agree here. I have the Lexus AFM and the 550cc injectors. I would not have used the Lexus AFM without the larger injectors. Running lean is a recipe for destroying engines. Much more expensive than a set of injectors.
Short answer: They don't. And in fact in most cars, the rear speakers are larger, simply because there's more room on the rear deck for them.
For the Mk3 Supra (At least those of us with an '86.5-'90 model) none of the factory speakers are large enough to really handle the full range. I've...
I do not believe that the engine harness connects to the cruise control. It DOES, however, connect to the speed sensors for the ABS on the front wheels. At least I'm pretty sure that's what those are.
A collapsed radiator hose means that the water pump is drawing out coolant, more than the thermostat is allowing back in.
This means that there is a leak in the system, and coolant is going somewhere. This can mean a leak in the hose, or yes, a BHG. A bad radiator cap COULD do this, but a...
Bleeding the PS system is easy, but I suppose that it's true that it makes a mess when pulling the motor to leave it in as well. In my case, it was literally easier to leave the PS pumps attached to the motors, though.
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