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Each ARP fastener has a different spec for each application (engine, flywheel, etc). You cannot assume what's spec'ed for one is good for another. That is an excellent way to induce fastener failure.

You're welcome...What happened to you is very, very common ;)

If you are already at 80 ft/lbs on a re-torque, this will not work. You do not want to go to 90 ft/lbs on studs...that is an over torque.

Adding your own friction modifier to Red Line 75W-90NS or mixing the two types as Asterix suggests sounds reasonable to me. Red Line 75W-90 does have a tendency to chatter in a Supra LSD, especially if it has a lot of miles on it. Cutting down on the friction modifier using either method might...

Running a thick oil doesn't do your engine any favors, unless you've built it to handle it...and, even then I'm not a fan of the really thick oils. For a stock motor you want the lowest 1st number you can find in a 30W multigrade. In your case (and if you like RP oil), use the 5W-30...

That should work ;)

That would be an absolute max...the exhaust gas passes through the EGR cooler at the rear of the head. Stainless would be way overkill.

Yes it makes sense...each base stock is going to drop in viscosity when heated at different rates. In the case of GC vs Red Line, it's really a case of PAO vs ester. Ester is superior in retaining viscosity under high heat conditions...that is why ester based oils replaced PAO for use in jet...

Dude - That's the rear cam gear cover...it has nada to do with any of this. The rear timing cover attaches to the front of the block and has the water pump housing as part of it. As I said, it's the TOP surface you need to be worried about.

Since the EGR flows exhaust gas, be very careful of the type soft line if you use it. A hard line would be my choice...copper tubing would work just fine.

The bottom edge is not the problem...the top surface has to be at the same or lower than the block deck. Otherwise, the higher rear timing cover will hold the head slightly off the block surface...the HG will not seal. If the top surface was not machined, you will have to take it back to the...

Just to be sure, the CPS should look like this with the crank/cam index marks all aligned: I would also check the IC piping rubber couplings for leaks....the 3000 pipe to TB rubber tends to crack and you can't easily see it.

LOL...I wouldn't call a 100 deg C viscosity of 12.1 cst "thin" for a 30W. It's one of the highest viscosity 30W multigrades out there at ops temp. http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf I'm over 400 HP and...

Of course you can if you want...the 2 versions of RL 75W-90 are the same, except for the friction modifier. You do want to use the RL friction modifier.

First confirm with a mechanical gauge. FPR and/or J-tube would be high on my list.

Yep! You can replace the WG flange with a V-band to use a Tial type.

The wastegate. You will not be able to use that manifold with a CT26 or any downpipe for it. Hard to tell, but it looks like a T4 turbo flange.

Which he is not ;) Keep the comparison valid as to what he's already doing to the 7M...that's what I was saying. To just take a so called "low mileage JDM 2J" (yeah, right) engine and slap it in is a crap shoot like any used motor you buy.

Nope - NGK copper plugs...the downside is you will have to change them more often.

Alright just checking, it can stay here. BTW - to build a 2J to the same caliber is going to cost as much or more ;)