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The wonderful thing is, if it's close, a couple more pounds of boost and you'll be winning easy. Cost to you? Not a thing. If *HE* wants to up the power, he's looking at a shitload of dough on top of a pile of work. :D

You'll get a lot more help if you post your questions in the right section. TIP: The MKIII Supra Reference/Tech-Tips section isn't the right one. Thread moved.

He's ~700lbs lighter than you, which puts his required power to wax your ass about where his should be, stock. It will probably be pretty damn close... unless his mods are giving him more than a few percentage points, in which case he should walk you pretty easy.

The HAC is integral to the ECU for most 1989 models, and all 1990 - 1992 models. The wires described in the installation instructions are only there if you have sent your ECU in to be modified by Full Throttle.

What tires are you running on that? Sounds like if you get some really sticky rubber, you may start to feel like you're in a jet, or strapped to the top of a rocket.

I seem to recall that becauseican did a before and after dyno going from stock exhaust to his DDP. Dig around on his website for some info... http://www.bicperformance.com

Correct.

You can see the bolts / brackets in this photo: PS: You can clock the exhaust housing any way you want by doing the same thing with the bolts that hold it on.

The Turbonetics unit is held on with 6 bolts that hold down 3 little brackets. You loosen the bolts and it will slide around nicely. What was posted above is a great starter. What it comes down to is really tuning - if you have a fantastic tune, you can get away with a stock bottom end...

Uh... what? There are 5 and a half connections to the radiator. 1. Engine to Radiator top hose. The first big one. 2. Radiator to engine bottom hose. The second big one. 3. Automatic transmission fluid cooler line in. Bottom center, on the engine compartment side. 4. Automatic transmission...

Yup, pretty much. I've never seen anyone do a chemical analysis to find out if the reduction from distilled water is worth the effort. I've personally put over a million kilometers on an engine using the local tapwater, so I rarely worry about it... but of course, your mileage may vary, and...

Oh, that. It's adjustable on virtually everything that isn't a CT - you can point it any way you want. :)

Simple version: distilled water is good. Complicated version: This actually depends on a lot of variables. Some places tap water is nearly as good as distilled. Some places, tap water is awful. Vegas comes to mind. I've never run into water with enough mineral content that it could block...

Well, kind of rare, I guess. AFAIK, they only came in some of the "L" models as an option. The "P" models seem to outnumber the "L"s, plus it was an option, so that's only a small number. Well, a lot smaller than the number of Mk2 Supras sold, anyway.

Tom, you can probably drop the rear anyway - the suspension pulls in a significant amount at the top of the travel. I've got 275s on mine, and I thought for SURE it was going to hit, but we pulled out the coilover and jacked it all the way up, and it doesn't hit at all.

Code 11 is a disturbance in the power / ground to the ECU. Try clearing the codes and see if it's just stored from before, of course, but next you get to check your power and ground lines to the ECU. Power is pretty basic. Ground is supposed to be connected to the rear bottom of the intake...

Not sure exactly what you mean here - the turbonetics bolts right up to the exhaust manifold, downpipe, accordian pipe, and the intercooler pipe to the intercooler. The only bits that don't are the oil lines.

LOL - no, I don't think so. The upgraded CT spooled from zero to 18 psi in a fraction of a second... there was no modulation, it was more like flipping a switch. I don't care what tires you are running, nothing holds in a corner in first gear at 18psi. And drifting around every corner in...

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Concoction? They don't have ham and eggs where you live?