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Nice, , ive see the cf ones, i like that though.. :icon_bigg

now that air to liquid IC right, that is just fine i would think since you will extrack mass more heat from water than air.. like going out side in shorts on 30 degree day.. cold. but now jump into 30 degree water,, which is colder... hehehe ok IJ, i agree, anything can be done,

all goes back to science class. the colder you can make the air entering the combustion chamber the more air molucules you can stuff in there which means more power..... colder is better.. IC works from air moving across the face of the IC, this extractls the heat from the air moving...

hows he to get any airflow through the IC like that?? totally defeats the purpose of the IC.

i dont think your going to get any air to flow across that IC?? sound like a bad idea to me? it would be alot more efficient out front where the air is? but it looks cool

toyota did it in the Mr2's, but they still suck,, lol not much other option unless they ran 20 ft of IC piping lol

i have a plotter (sticker cutter) and i can cut these if anyone wants em just pm me.. i just made these so let me know what ya think.. except ill fix the spelling of motorsports.... LOL

so does an electronic boost controller work better. any overshoots or creep with them?

definately the hondas here... those honda body kits add like 100hp :3d_frown: lol no...

hmmm. so what your saying is its normal to see creep with my setup, just due to the better flow? even if i was running the stock actuator without controller? i would still see this creep in boost... i did see that i was at 12 psi before, then and after the exahust i was at 15 so i dialed...

ok , i have a custom boost controller, from an air regulator, and the dual port actuator with 7.5 lb spring. it worked very good with my old 2.5 in exhaust, super accurate, no overshoots, no creep. I just swapped over to 3" turbo back system and now im experiencing boost creep. it hits...

then why did you?

ohh , my best guess i would think youd be fine, but i have no experience with them.. someone here can answer your question better im sure.. sorry..

i heard that 60-1 is too big for the ct-26 and that they become unreliable. i had mine upgraded to 50-1 and i like it. its only 40% more air flow, but it should last a long time..

on mine so far, ive done lower ball joints, brakes, rotors, HG, battery, alt, starter, waterpump , timing belt. all the belts and hoses, , clutch master cyl, heater core, lower timing gear, plus mass more stuff before i even started to mod it. so ya it does not seem to ever end, but if...

now that is awsome idea... not that i would hack my car but i see gte's cheap and same with the mkII's, be fun to build one... make a good 1/4 mile car... 850lbs less with this powerplant and trans..specially a gutted mkII.. :icon_evil . good info,, does the engine transplant easily...

nothing wrong with being on a budget as long as things get done correctly. i am probably the cheapest son of a bitch around, i built my own IC pipes from raw bent mandrel pipe, but its done right, same with my exhaust, the dp from ebay, the mandrel bends from some other source and the...

ya the factory alarm if you have it? will disable the starter if the battery connections are lost.. i always put the key into the ignition to the run position before i reconect the batt. keeps the alarm from tripping, try to lock and unlock the door with the key . check that previously...

there is www.turboneticsinc.com (turbonetics) www.turbonetics.com (performance techniques) you may be right, but i wanted to clearify i used the second link...

ok, i will read the book. i like his books anyways. i did read this artical.. it was a little helpful.. fact vs myth on global warming http://www.environmentaldefense.org/documents/382_myths.htm this was a fun topic. lets do it again sometime... goodnight man..