puuuuullllleeeeeezzzzzzzeeeeee!!!! Quite giving yourself a handjob & focus on the task at hand. While your lag monster is trying to get itself going, I'll be hittin the brakes 1320 feet later. Keep strokin your ego, I'll keep strokin my 7M....:evil2:
You suxes! :biglaugh:
If you can't...
Add me to the 'I like it' list. Painting it flat black makes it look almost stock. Aggressive, yet understated. Joe's cars has been one of my favorites for a while....
I just got back from the machine shop. I will be picking it up today.:bigthumb:
A few weeks ago I stopped by the shop & showed Bill, the machinist, my hot side set up. He asked a few questions & then finally asked me what kind of power I will be making. I told him between 425rwhp daily...
I bought everything from MDC, minus the wastgate which came from BigAaron. I'd rather not give the actual cost, but it was an amazing deal. PM Jon, I'm sure you'll be happy you did.
I'm going to complete the downpipe. I'm completely reworking my exhaust system too using 3" 304 SS.
I went to see my motor today. The machinist has the pistons & crank in, but not the oil pump. I'll pick the motor up in the morning, so I should have 90% of the motor assembled this weekend. Look for an update on my build thread on Sunday.
I have my SS & aluminum pipe pieces in for my...
I'm down for one, but after I get my current mods done.
Can you do a delayed exchange? Meaning can you send one, I install it & then send you my core to avoid down time?
I wish a supplier would bite the bullet & fab a true bolt in conversion. Pipe dream I know, but a nice NSX kit stamped from sheet metal would rock! Throw in some off-the-shelf lights & a few misc pieces to give the lights adjustability & you're set. I think that $300-$400 for a full...
If the snout is out of round, you will for sure need a new crank. When looking for one, try to find one that is standard & can either be micro polished or cut .001 to clean it up. I recommend avoiding running a crank that has been cut .002, my theory is .002 leads to rodknock.
Stop, don't start changing the wiring harness.
First, the knock sensors are all the same (somebody correct me if I'm wrong), so you're fine there. It sounds like to me that you need to do the SOGI rewire. Sheaff sells a great rewire kit here, or you can tackle it yourself
Ask your local machine shop of you can borrow theirs for a few hours. Your 2 foot long cast level will without a doubt be out of plain by at least .01", throwing your measurements in the toilet.
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