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you cant swap cam caps like that, they have to be machined for THAT head.

it is going to be a complete pig. some things need to be done together, dropping compression and adding FI is one of those things..

i saw an increase of 4-5 psi at warm idle from lapping the cam caps.

ebay ones... im not sure how the dp will fit with an adapter plate for the t4-t3 flange... if anyone runs a stock or direct replacement DP with one of these id like to know...

unless the shop is going to do a quick fix, the crank has to be removed to have the snout repaired properly.

a mhg should not have failed on stock levels, was it prepped correctly? the hks stopper is the end all hg. The prep work has to be PERFECT. I have the stopper and its held up perfectly so far.

have the cam caps lapped and line bored while your at it, and the head hardness tested above all else first (usually IJ is all over this ;)). good luck with it!

yes, yes it is! your letting un-metered air in.... edit: jdub beat me to it :)

yes yes, dont do all that work if its not needed! will it over heat at idle? highway? stop go? Does the overflow bottle over flow?

i smell the "run around" or incomplete info from the op.. A trashed crank snout shouldnt cause internal damage and if the shop is saying it needs to be pulled (seems thats what they said from your post) you are getting hustled bud!

i know figgie said he spent a hefty 8 hours on the other forum when he ported his.

^ i think your MIGHT sell post is in the wrong section man, post it up for sale in the "for sale" section other wise i cant see how this helps the op. Its kind of a tease lol

:aigo::aigo: that tb looks good! beats the hell out of the stocker! glad its working for you man, cant wait to see some vids!

well that pretty much sums it up, egay tubular its is in the future...

im assuming this is not a oem tb?

what was the issue and how did you fix the stutter? your sad build up of boost sounds like the wastegate is staying open... wait until you get full boost at 36-3800 rpms, it hits like a train! I had some boost creep with the 14 psi spring. I had to port the wastegate port and the leading edge...

how did the shop know the pulley was trashed but not the crank snout??? if they pulled the pulley, the snout would be right there in front of them..

Breaking in a motor seems to me to be like asking "do aliens exists". Some shops say let it rev in N with varied rpms for XXX amount of time, others drive it like you stole it and others say drive it gently (and the internet just adds more opinions)... Id like to hear what our old timers do...

if im not mistaken the exhaust ports on the head should be left alone. they prevent reversion from the pressure caused with the turbo iirc... poodles has stated this a few times and a few others. Make sure to search before you chew into it! the mani can be hacked to bits though. the "bumps"...

nope, most of us are just trying to get 18psi on pump running smoothly! :)