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It's a proportioning valve Tim. PWM driven. Note the TRSM's warning of applying full power to it for longer than a few seconds. Also note the standard signals at idle and at speed. Do either of those imply a run of the mill solenoid? And as a suspension specialist what does the word...

Well, whatever you use has to correct for manifold pressure. You just can't regulate fuel pressure to a set value and leave it there. That'd work only as long as the pressure at the injector's outlet remained the same ie; at atmospheric or some other level. A little thought experiment: 1) Put...

Such a regulator wouldn't maintain the constant delta P required across the injectors with varying manifold pressure.

Subscribed ;)

The PPS computer is behind the glove box. I didn't say he was bent, I said I personally don't see the point in it. It's a pity those who think it's simple don't have PPS to try it on because I'd love to read the whining afterwards about how their system no longer works at all. That's the...

What IJ said. All things equal ceramic is better but it has little to do with efficiency. That's dependent on the quality of the wash coat, surface area, and how close the mixture is to stoich. A ceramic substrate is also better from a corrosion standpoint should the wash coat become damaged.

I know how it works from both the electronic and hydraulic standpoints. If I read his message right he'd already abandoned the MR2 pump idea and wants to control the stock PPS instead. I'm not saying it can't be done but it'd be more involved than he's suggesting. Frankly I don't see the point...

You're out to luch....

Lol. Come on lagged, they're good for something ;) http://tinyurl.com/2qlekb

Cuel, you might want to pick up one or two of these. I've used them for years. A handy gadget that goes way beyond testing injectors: http://tinyurl.com/26jpne edit: I also like the Power Probe II for doing car work.

Shouldn't be a factor. I'd normally suggest the igniter isn't sending back IGf but if that were the case he should have a code 14. If it were me I'd be looking at the power side of the injection circuit. Course, we only have his word the injectors aren't firing. I see no proper diagnostic...

The "O ring" is plenty adequate. Just be sure it's installed correctly ie; around the thermostat's perimeter. That last guy who brought a car to me after fighting with a leak kept putting the thermostat in first and the seal on top of it. Why he thought that'd work is beyond me. And Frank...

The way I see it you have three issues: 1) Lack of knowledge about how the car works. Because of that you've no idea how to diagnose it correctly. 2) Friends who're the same regardless of what they think they know. 3) A serious attitude problem. I'll leave you with three pieces of wisdom...

Actually I was talking about putting the coil in place of the low beam filament. Contacts would be left unused.

^ What he said. Unfortunately the O2 sensor isn't going to fix it because a bad one can't cause that kind of problem.

The socket. The relay's coil should serve the same purpose as a lamp filament or resistor without their drawbacks. Worst that could happen is the indicator might be a bit dim. 3p? Myself, I'd probably rewire it. Pretty simple other than the tight work area in the footwell.

Lol. "One head bolt...two head bolts..."

I used standard heater hose after molding it to the increased ID needed on the valve port. Been there for years and still looks new.

You don't count ;)

People who say head bolts can't be reused need to learn some basic engineering and materials science. As long as they haven't been taken past their elastic limit they'll be fine and if your head has never been off your bolts haven't. Mike them if you want to be sure. If that isn't enough I have...