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What the others said. I'm using the Mighty brand too. They're my first set since stock, which lasted 18 years. The hatch ones are still original and work fine. Not as good as new but no problems holding it up. And maybe it's just me but anyone with the IQ of a speed bump should be able to look...

I use two of these on another car and one on the bike. You can get by with one on a car but two are insane: http://tinyurl.com/2hx7wb

It'll disable boost in the sense it can't run the engine run properly with one of it's critical sensor inputs (airflow) whacked. You need to fix the codes first, especially the 31. The ecu can easily compensate for most sensor failures but it's ability to compensate for airflow failure is...

You can do without it but rather than simply connecting the outlet to the inlet I suggest you use them to install a coolant filter. Once you're run one you'll understand why.

Sorry Frank. I should have put a smiley there. I was referring to your habit of buying only the best (new afm, ect) but it really doesn't matter where the bolts go. I just didn't want the guy to get the wrong idea. No low blow intended.

Don't try and pin this on me. If you'd really done it the way I said you'd have known the AFM was shot and pulling the harness was not only unnecessary but dumb.

Say what? I realize if they were available Frank would buy new titanium alloyed gold plated head bolts packaged in Bombay Sapphire and oil from Paris Hilton's inner thighs but where used ones go doesn't matter.

Yeah, I would, but I'll help you out. First, current flow through a sensor falls as the sensor warms up. In the original stock sensor it settles to around 1.5 amps @14.5 volts. The behavior is normal for any resistance based heater. If you have a modern replacement sensor with a smaller...

Sounds like the cooler is leaking. Have fun with that ;) Edit: Oops, missed the inside part. What Grim Jack said.

"Ground the computer so it doesn't advance"? How exactly would you go about that? Do you mean run it in diag mode all the time? That wouldn't be wise. Just fix whatever is wrong with the engine. Your idle problem sounds like an intermittent IDL signal, either caused by a bad TPS or a linkage...

Fix it. As has been pointed out leaks upstream of the O2 sensor will shift fuel control to the rich side.

Spent? Between getting the car free and not having to buy others for 20 years some rough math shows mine has made me about $100K.

Yeah, the 1/2 watt resistor will. I recently helped a member out with this. Maybe he'll respond. Btw, your math is a little off...

Hmmm. At 33 that should've been blatantly obvious. Sluggo: You're not...

A clicking relay means squat. All it means is the coil is being energized. Not to mention when everything is working right there are two relays down there that click when the key is held to start. The only way to tell if the starter one is clicking is to go in there and see. That said I agree...

:nono:

Well, you're not supposed use a lot. Just a touch under the eyes and a bit on the cheeks for color ;) Doward: Prestone Heavy Duty Cleaner is oxalic acid but it can be hard to find. Comes in a yellow two part cardboard can with the cleaner on top and the neutralizer on the bottom. The...

Nah, like they said it's bad in a few places. Fwiw it seems you went though a lot of needless diagnostics to get here. And I don't know how many times I've posted where combustion testers can be bought at half the price Napa sells them. Even ebay has them for cheap. Not to mention you can go to...

Yeah, you can wing it with volts. Use the values in the TRSM for guidance. Since you're measuring duty cycle even if you can't know exactly what's going on you'll know for sure if it's bad. A 10 cent LED with a resistor will do it too. Even though I'm not a fan of the resistance method you can...

Take it back to whomever did the engine work.