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Good point Brian... CJ: That's the gold. Fwiw you're far from the first person to be fooled by looking in the bottle. Also, GC both green and gold have been gas chromographed by some very knowledgeable people in the lubricants biz. You can find entire threads on it over at the BITOG forums...

That page is pretty funny. Creative guys. At least it shows what crap can be floating around in there. The Tefba will be OK but it's not optimal. When I cut my filters open I see all kinds of stuff that'd easily get by it. I don't think it has any sort of bypass either ie; when it plugs you'll...

From a technical standpoint I somewhat agree with him. From a practical standpoint I maintain it's risky for people with limited knowledge and experience to defeat EGR because of this PCM's aggressive timing strategy coupled with the points made above. Regardless, high combustion temps thin det...

That Samco kit might be what I was thinking of. I'm not saying the ebay one won't fit but it just doesn't look "loopy" enough compared to the one sitting here. The bends seem off. Not that it'd help but you might want to ask the guy. I'll stick with stock for now since I have a new one...

I'm holding a new one in my hands (lol, the one on the car is original. I really should change it one of these days ) and by looking at the photo it's not the same. Sorta close but no cigar I thought one of the vendors here had an offering?

I'm also unaware of any new green and I've been using GC for years. In fact I'm pretty sure I was the first to mention it on this forum, along with lots of other oil advice. Course, nobody ever listens to me :)

Could be. He can test the stock one and recal the WB using the ambient level right? Dunno, don't own one. Never will. A useless gadget that only measures one gas ;)

^ lol. Could be an exhaust leak. Are the sensors located near each other?

Ugh. To the OP: Just to clear things up listen to Adjuster. He has it all correct. The only point I'd make is it is a VSV but not in the sense we normally refer to them because it's hydraulic rather than electric. Since he knows I know he knows this he'll forgive me ;) As for the light failure...

The major byproducts of combustion (at least good combustion) are CO2 and water vapor. Toss in colder ambient temps and it all sounds normal to me.

87T @ 139,384 miles. Iirc it had 22 when I bought it. 34K on the engine. Consumables aside everything except the radiator, heater core, and AC compressor are original. Same goes for every light bulb except the HL and fogs (which were working when I replaced them with better) too. Even I'm amazed...

EGR was originally investigated for reducing detonation, which it does well. Search around and you'll find the references. If the engine is working right EGR flow carries minimal HC. The valve is a simple normally closed diaphragm type that's modulated by manifold and exhaust pressure. Finally...

My two cents: 1) EGR was originally developed to address detonation. The discovery that it reduces oxides of nitrogen was serendipitous. 2) Even in a healthy engine NOx production is near maximum in a stoichiometric mixture. 3) There's an entire section of the catalyst devoted solely to NOx...

I unplugged the connector to leave it down and use the diversity one instead. Works for me.

UTI should refund your tuition.

Based on your comments I'm assuming you made the same mistake as the OP and measured the air temp sensor in the AFM instead of the far more important part that provides airflow information. They are completely independent of each other. The TRSM has resistance specs for the airflow portion too...

Some of you need to find a way to open your hoods less. I'm lucky if I open mine once a month. If the car required more I'd crush it and move on...

And rightly so ;) Fwiw Stabilus makes the world's best gas springs. They're what I use on my Delorean where strut application, long life, and stability is critical to safety. I dunno if they have ones to fit this car but I'm willing to bet they do. Might be a bit more pricey though. I believe...

Right. It's a crap shoot. Literally. Every time those 3 way valves port to atmospheric pressure the volumes they're connected to are equalized by what can be a dirty environment. I prefer to avoid sucking crap into the valves because I've had to disassemble and clean a few from cars with missing...

Just fyi but faulty knock sensor wiring couldn't possibly have anything to do with a cold starting problem. Ignition timing is fixed until 500 rpm is crossed. In fact the microprocessor in the ECU isn't even involved with timing until then. That wiring would've been the source of your code 52...