Because it's one of the three legitimate air paths into the engine. The other two are the ISC and throttle plate. Deprive the engine of all three and it can't run unless there's a leak somewhere. Checking the brake booster was a smart troubleshooting move but it's only useful after a leak is...
Plug (or pinch) the ISC hose again. Then plug the PCV port on the TB. If the engine continues to run you either have pirate air or the throttle plate is open. It's as simple as that.
Well, the ECU gets it's grounding from the intake manifold so what does that tell you?
Not that you really need the coil pack "ground" because the engine will run without it. It should be connected though. I'd explain but since most here have trouble with even basic electricity something...
A good place to start would be the code 51. Assuming it's from the TPS (it usually is) as long as it's there the idle speed control system will be disabled.
I don't know what the aftermarket pump draws but if it's anywhere near the stock one running a wire from the battery is a waste of time. Then again I also feel running the pump on 12 volts full time is, for the most part, one of the dumber mods out there.
Jdub's method of jumping the resistor...
You be welcome. Yeah, a little circuit analysis shows what you did would've blown fuses. Good thing you put one up at the battery like you should have or you would've smoked that wire.
I see you used the other way of circumventing fuel pump control. It's one of three methods you could have...
Well, you could always measure fuel pressure and see. Pump current would also be helpful.
There's absolutely no need to prime the fuel system so why he did that is beyond me. If he had a code 43 I could maybe see it but that's a dumb way around the problem. That said you can always prime it...
The one to the far left just above whatever is red. It's the two wire coolant sensor the ECU uses. That's gonna cause you problems. You must have a code 22...
There were three types of switches used by Toyota during those days for defogger operation:
1) Switch with no timer
2) Switch with IC timer
3) Switch with discrete timer and cancel function.
The MKIII uses # 3. Timing is done by charging a 220 mf capacitor (C2) in an RC network that keeps a...
This might help: http://tinyurl.com/5hjxm
Power from the battery should go to 30
The pump (wire 1) should go to 87
The original pump feed (wire 4) should go to 85
A ground should go to 86
Wires on 85 and 86 can be swapped, as can those on 30 and 87, but normal practice is to wire power to the...
The TPS is not the cause of your misfire. Plus you're putting WAY too much focus on setting it. The feeler gauge thing is not critical and is mainly for emissions. Just set it using code 51 and as long as you don't end up with a 41 afterwards move on to what's really wrong with the engine...
Don't feel bad. There's a huge amount of slow people from the US and at times I think every one of them must be a MKIII owner. If you don't buy into that just look at who's running the country. They don't come much slower and that he got the job twice is even more evidence.
No, not the button...
You're missing the point. Cranking loads are in the neighborhood of 150-200 amperes. Because of a healthy battery's ampacity even under those conditions voltage doesn't fall below 10-11 volts. Put another way if you had parasitic current flow of such magnitude to drop a good battery to 8 volts...
The first thing you should do is get or verify closed loop at 2500 rpm by looking at the NB sensor directly or it's emulation on Vf. It's more accurate for that task than any WB. Once you know the engine is in closed loop you'll know whether to believe the WB or not. After that you can address...
Where do you see the light on? Regardless, the factory alarm can't have any bearing on his troubles.
SB89: I'm not picking on you, just trying to keep things straight. You were simply mistaken. Happens to me too. That I'm always right is nothing more than a vicious rumor perpetrated by my...
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