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Say what? You can check for codes without a cluster. Check Vf to see if one is set and if so measure W on the ECU referenced to 12 volts. Doing either of those things will also tell you if you've got a good connection across T and E. That'll hopefully lead to timing it correctly.

Since my TT and anti-jack is a custom designed system a write up would be of no help. Besides, it's 20 years old and the drawings are long lost. Lucky for me the damn thing still works as well as the day I built it. The anti-jack is complicated but the TT is simple: Whenever the headlights are...

My 87 has it. Still works fine. As CRE said it's there so you can pull the handle first and see the lock.

Poodles is probably right. I put them up prior to washing so I won't forget. The stock squirters operate only when the headlights are on and even then only for a second because the cleaner relay is a one-shot. I like having them but use that button mainly because it does double duty for the...

Or people could fix the car right. It isn't the wiring. Never has been. At least on every car I've worked on. No surprise there since it doesn't make sense it would be. And even if the wiring was in question it can be checked in 60 seconds. I've even yanked this "improvement" off a couple of...

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You need to get out more. Florida may be flat but a lot of the country isn't...

Actually you're both wrong but here's an idea: Pull the booster line off, plug the port, and then see what the engine does when the brakes are applied...

Must be where that "bugger!" thing you guys have comes from ;)

Good point about the pressure. From the post I assumed he used one of those aluminum jobbies with a replaceable element but I could be wrong. Critters. Reminds me of an aircraft accident I know about involving insects and open lines. Funny how such small things can cause so much trouble...

I'd say imagination too. Closed loop data is used to adjust open loop but you shouldn't notice it happening unless something else is wrong. Put another way the default values, the "base code", will run the engine just fine if there aren't other issues it has to deal with. Even then it's ability...

^ This. And use a good filter, not one of those pissy little inline things made for carbs. Since they're not designed for recirculating fuel systems they have very little capacity. Good job on finding that btw. I'd be asking myself where that crap came from though...

Assuming you have a normal hot idle of around 650 rpm to begin with the ISC system should bring it back up. If not open the idle bypass on the TB until you get a 200-300 rpm rise then wait until the ECU relearns the idle value and brings it back down. That could take a day or two but should...

I lamo @ this all the time. It's obvious many people don't understand how that whole thing works. The engine should run the same whether the ECU hasn't been reset for a year or was reset 2 minutes ago. Mine does. If others don't there's something wrong with them.

Oops, I should have mentioned that's true only with the regulator hose off. Sure the regulator is OK? Try putting vacuum on it with the engine off.

I too suffer from this problem...

I'm waiting for something to happen. I could just crush it but where's the fun in that? The time is coming though. No "lifetime investment" (lamo, out of the mouth of babes) plan here. Oh and:

Why are you running that pump through the resistor? Have you measured the current? If electrical is OK a pressure drop during a snap throttle test points to a restriction of some sort in the supply side of the system. Clogged filter, sick pump, plugged sock, kinked hose, anything that prevents...

I'll tell ya what's weird. Nah, never mind.... The fuel pump doesn't run until the key is in the start position. Thereafter it runs only as long as the engine is receiving CPS signals on a turbo motor or air is flowing through the AFM on an NA. While many cars do prime for a bit with the key on...

8 A is only ground for the tach, volt meter if you have one, and turbo gage if you don't. That said you appear to have gage power and ground, You can visually trace (or ohm) things out to see where the problem is. Just pick one gage and focus on it. Trace pin 8 A to it and then pin 8 C. (12 volts).