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I'm curious. Why would you buy an engine that exhibited such symptoms? Only reasons I can see are A) You failed to properly inspect the vehicle or B) You accepted the problems and intended to effect repairs. Am I missing something?

^ Good idea. That'll save everyone a lot of grief...

Valve Timing versus Ignition Timing...

No lead on the elbow but it can be GMAW (mig). Won't be quite as pretty as GTAW though. Not sure what you mean by "regular". Since it's aluminum it'll require AC tig. The weldor will know all this.

Well, you could always break down and buy the book from Toyota. That said the gage fuse powers the window control: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=094 I have no idea what fuse you're talking about. Being inline it sounds like something that was added. If so...

So oil contains a lot of hydrocarbons eh? ;) 1) Our cars use 3-way catalysts. 2) Our cars don't run rich, at least not where the cat and emissions testing are concerned. 3) A new cat will mask feed gas problems. The state will be happy but that doesn't mean the engine will be. 4) People...

You'd better keep looking....

The vehicle already has redundant grounds in every circuit but one. Therefore a "more is better" approach is electrically stupid, as is (generally speaking) increasing the size of grounding conductors. Most grounding problems are owner induced anyway. They do things like reuse the special...

Sigh... 1) What the canister is doing is not normal. 2) You want Halon, preferably a blend of 1301 and 1211 but 1211 alone will do. Neither is difficult to find or buy.

Appears the answers to my questions were no ;) Crap myths indeed. There is so much BS about ignition components I rarely get involved in discussions of it. The stuff is right up there with oil when it comes to people not having a clue about how it really works, many so-called professional...

I know you will. Try "black body"...

Why do you want one? You're stock right? You're aware the secondary will rise to whatever voltage is needed to fire the plug? And that on a stock system we're talking about 50 KV? And that ionization is a function of mixture?

I give up. Trying to teach you guys anything is a struggle ;) (IJ is on the right track)

GM may well have done that but I'm staring at a bottle of M1 spec V Mercon. Says also recommended for GM since it's the replacement for Dex III. I've been using it without problem. It's more than $5/quart too ;)

Stock is 10 mm iirc. 3/8 hose will work. What color are almost all OEM and aftermarket coolers? Why do you suppose that is? Anyone? Bueller?

Slept through physics did we? ;)

^ Lol. I hate 'em too Dub but what can I say...they kinda have me over a barrel with the ATF ;)

Excellent advice all around by people who know what they're talking about, even Jay ;). Kck: I recommend Mobil One. The latest Dex V version these days. Not that others are bad but I've had good luck with it in that every PS component on my car remains original. Then again I took all of the...

When T and E are jumped and the engine is at idle (IDL contact in TPS closed) Vf will be 5 volts if no codes are present and 0 volts if at least one code is set. If you find zero volts nothing says you can't connect a small light bulb across terminal W at the ECU and 12 volts to check codes. Or...

^ Lmfao. It's because of the endless array of clueless punks they have to deal with. Myself, I enjoy these cops versus punks and punks versus each other threads. Made my day...