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I agree.

I'm pretty sure the Lotus exige has a variant of the 2ZZ motor.

You can clean the ex. valves(it's just carbon buildup), but it takes alot of grinding. I got tired after only two valves, and got on Ebay and bought a new set for $60 shipped.

Werd. I have the crap Autometer mech. boost gauge, and it reads 2psi when off, meaning I've got 18in. vac when it shows 16, and 12psi boost when it shows 10.

will a wideband O2 sensor last a good long life like the stocker?

Yeah, my car surges a bit under moderate to hard acceleration when very cold. That being said, I no longer try to run it hard till I see the temp needle starting to rise off the peg. As for the AFR's; as mentioned above, the AFR should occilate slowly at idle, and rapidly through full range at...

I misread your original post. You shouldn't put post 88 injectors(high impedance) on a pre-88 car(low impedance), because the injectors will be slow to open/respond(though you can put low imp.'s into a later car). If you want 550's in your 90 car, best to go buy some.

Hella rich at idle through highway cruising could also be a defective CSI. But you should try testing for boost leaks as Grim says.

The plug and play injectors are Denso's, and possibly some HKS units. The Denso's have a pinkish red color to the top area.

Until you get a set of 550's, I'd say add 5 more psi to the AFPR.

Well, he said that the relay is clicking, so it doesn't sound like that's the problem.

no?

Yes, but only if you're using the NA tranny- A.K.A. W58. PS- If you're using an old OEM clutch, it will slip at anything above ~220RWHP.

Check the wires on the CPS, they sometimes get crossed or poor contacts. Try moving them around a bit. Also, If you did the valve cover gaskets, you messed with the coil/igniter connection. try wiggling that a bit.

The starting issue is the solenoid on the starter. You CAN replace the faulty contacts inside the solenoid, but it's easier to replace the entire starter, and only costs about $60-75 for one w/ warranty. The CPS has an o-ring around it's base. If you get one from the dealership, you can...

The front one has to be dimpled- aka pounded in the center, as it's made convex. That drives the outer edge into the block seat. I got a brass set on Ebay, packaged specifically for the 7M (all metric).

I was wondering if anyone had a good shot of their front timing cover area, with theouter covers removed. I'm trying to piece together where all of the new studs and fasteners should go. The TSRM isn't as helpful, as alot of the fastener numers have changed. Thanks.

After clearing the codes, drive it locally. I'm not sure if the ECU will register any codes if it just idles. You may have to run it around the block for a minute or two. I don't really think that theO2 sensor can cause a HUGE rich mixture, aspecially at idle, and at wide open throttle, it...

Thanks. I just ordered $60 in fasteners from the dealership- OUCH! I ordered all new front timing cover fasteners, new flywheel bolts, and the expensive part was those stupid grommets and steel sleeves that go into the coil bracket mount. $24 just for those 4 setups.

That's a guy.