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Yeah- I made 261hp at stock boost. ps- I would expect you to make full boost before 4000rpm.

1ggte? Kinda rare to have the 2.0 motor. Not sure how much is here in the US for that engine. Welcome to the forums, man.

Good work. I've had trouble in the past, trying to get the ARP's out. It's like they swelled up and I couldn't lift the head off them, so i had to remove them with the head.

Hey- where's Kathleen, GA?

Yes, Mine is similar, just round. However, the best design, is to have a wall, inside the can, separating the inlet side from the outlet side, so that all air is forced down to the bottom, and then up to the outlet through a wire mesh, to allow the fumes to cool. The mesh captures the...

Eibachs here. Had Intrax, but they sat too low, and i scraped. Eibach's have a good ride and look good too- 1" drop rear, 1.5" drop front.

Also, I don't see how the coating can go from the manifold into the engine, unless you're talking about it passing through the EGR system to get there. Otherwise, the only way any flakes would be going is towards your cat.

Have you had any new codes since changing all of those items out? What is your fuel pressure showing? What mods do you have?

you expect me to believe that and old lady was trying to do a JZ swap?? Regardless, good find, man.

Yes. Or I might have some. PM me your address and I'll send what I've got, if you don't mind waiting a few days. Otherwise you're looking at like $7 or $8 at Radioshack.

If you get one from Advanced Auto parts, it IS a factory unit. It's Aisin, and they grind the name toyota off the side.

What rpm are you checking the timing at? Have you jumpered the T and E1 ports as the TSRM says? Jumping might be from misfiring. You should have fresh plugs gapped at .8mm

Mine is the headgasket. ...oh- sorry...my standard answer. I would see if you can get an adapter that goes from the accordian hose's inlet size to the same diameter as the output for the BOV. Basically- an all-metal reducer that will fit the nipple off the intake, and allow you to run a...

You already said that you had fuel pressure- why do you now think that you don't? And you said that your alternator is making a strange noise?? When the engine is NOT running?? You said you don't have spark- focus on that issue. Check the cps- it's timing AND the condition of the 4-wire plug at...

Does that help? It's a small circuit board on the back of your factory tach, inside the instrument cluster. It's a relatively easy job, even for a novice.

It's not hard- it's like 4 resistors total.

I was thinking the same thing. Take off your rear speaker covers, and you'll see the three top strut assembly nuts. Make sure they're tight.

In a word, no. You'd probably spend as much time modifying the dash and trim pieces, that your labor would pay for a MKIV.

Finally got it all back together- runs great. Only had to adjust the CPS once. yay me!

Unless your car has slicks and a rollcage, your new tach cannot be of greater diameter than 4.3 inches. If it is, ricer-douche factor increases at an exponential rate, in direct proportion. :biglaugh: