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Woa- Had blown some fuses? There's where your problem lies. Not in the fuses themselves, probably, but in the short(s) that blew them in the first place. Keep us posted, as there is nothing more frustrating than everybody putting in their effort to help, and never hearing the solution/ results. :)

If you want serious height, like if you had to pull the tranny out for example, You'll need to jack in steps, regardless. IE- jack up to some height, put in jackstands, And start again with the jack, with the extenders you posted, or wood spacers, as mentioned. This is the only way to get 2+ft...

I imagine you could run one, but either way, you want to shroud it so ALL air goes through the fan. And you must run it through a relay or you'll be burning up coolant temp switches daily. Trust me.

True what he said, but if you ARE going to make more power, or you AREN'T going to change your driviung habits, do what I say.

Another important tip- When you install the clutch, you need to leave the pressure plate loose on the flywheel, so that when you guide the the input shaft of the tranny in through the clutch, the disc has some wiggle room so that it can self-align. This is why Toyota put in those two inspection...

It's the cps. I really need to put this answer in a file on my desktop, so that I can copy and paste it every time I see this type of thread. 1. Remove the adjustment bolt that holds the cps in. 2. Rotate the cps in either direction to a point just past its normal adjustment range. 3.Try to...

1. Have you checked the ALT fusible link in the fusebox yet? 2. If that's good, Check to make sure the neg. cable is tight to the block on the lower driver's side, and the pos. cable is tight to the starter as well. 3. Then check the condition of both terminals on the battery. They must be clean...

Eibach's, Tockico blue's, Suspension Techniques swaybars. Mind you- This is only about 15 minutes after I put the new wheels one, and the car had been up for awhile, so the car prolly sits about 2-3mm lower than this. If you want lower, get Intrax. They ride for shit, but you'll be slammed...

Before everyone jumps on you: What power are you making? What power are you planning in the future? Do you do any track or drag events, or is this stricktly a daily driver? If you're making near stock power and no plans for much bigger, I'd say some sort of stage 2 clutch. Something with a bit...

I finally broke down and got a real floor jack. I fits lowered cars, and jacks seriously high. I was tired of dragging my two stupid little walmart special jacks around. It's not a greatest jack you can buy, mind you- but its way better than what I had.

This is my biggest pet peeve of the forums. 99% of the time, once someone gets an answer and/or finds a solution, they never post the results. So nobody else gets the benefit of that knowledge if THEY ever have a similar problem.

Define 'nothing'. You mean there is no engine rotation, I assume? If this is the case, first ensure that the battery is charged. If so, check the ALT fuse in the fuse box. It is the loop of wire(fusible link). If the previous owner messed with cam timing, or cps timing, the car may not start...

If I were to guess, I'd say you'll make around 280 to 310 ft-lbs @12psi. And I would say yes, an Exedy would hold, but maybe not as long as a stock clutch on a stock motor. In other words, I'd say get something with slightly higher clamp pressure for longevity's sake. Organic discs are fine, but...

255's won't bulge on an 8.5 rim. My tire shop accidentally put 265's(my back tires) on my 8.5(my front) rim, and they looked pretty flush. I run 265's on my rear wheels(9.5), and wish I had gone 245 front/ 275 rear.

"Tonight" has come and gone... What are the results?

So... You're saying that the injectors are opening, but no fuel comes out? Was there any recent work done to the engine, or this just started happening?

I think you're overthinking this- He said(I think!) that he pulled the engine out, repaired it, and put it back in, no swap or anything. It's easier if the mounts are on the motor, and not on the engine cradle, when you lower it in.

Use either a mechanics stethescope, or a long screwdriver, to press against the valve covers, and zero in on where exactly this noise is coming from. If it indeed sounds like it is coming from under a valve cover, remove that cover, and check the valvetrain itself out closely. Post your findings.

Well, it definately looks glossier.

Hey Scott how you been? I'm the guy you bought that 7MGTE off of a few years back. As of today I just retired my 88 turbo to the garage for a complete renovation, including engine, suspension and paint. I'll be driving an '86 MR2 for the time being, but it's a pretty fun car. ps- Diego...