See once again I learn more. LOL It is a neat theory but I would hate to spend that much money only for it to be a piece of junk. Thanks for the info, I will have to do more research.
Wow have you guys seen this new BOV? It uses only air pressure to control the relief side of it. I watched the youtube that the company did and it shows the internal workings and just exactly how it works. There is also a vid of it on a Evo. They also have a anti stall valve for it that...
I put my sending unit in the thermostat outlet where the VSV should be, but seeing as I took out the charcoal canister it is not needed anymore. As for your fans I would have them come on at 180. I have a new flex-a-lite electric fan setup that I have not installed yet (deployed) but will when...
No you would get more of a constant sound if it were wheel bearings. I would have to say it is either your upper or lower ball joint. Lowers are easy to get and change but the upper ones you have to buy the whole control arm as the ball joint is made into the control arm. I found my upper...
Try disconnecting the boost controller and install a manual controller and see if that works. Maybe you have one of the lines going to the boost controller broken. I know that happened to me once.
From what I have read and heard the Stance are the better coilover. I will eventually be putting some on my ride and then see if the Eibach stiff springs I have on now will fit. As long as the I.D is 2.5" then they should work just fine. I like the mulitiple adjustments the stance has as well
Yea that is what I am thinking as well and it must relate to the auto's that are turbo'd because if you think about it, most times the manual guys are getting into the higher boost so they might not hear the flutter as much. I could be wrong in my thinking as well. But I am going to try what...
Judging by the 3 posts it looks like I need to remove the washers and try it from there. I didn't know about the pressure being on the other side of the valve under boost. I figured it would leak and needed to have the extra tension to keep it shut. Hmmmmm ok I will have to give this a try...
Alright guys I am looking for suggestions here. I have a built automatic and my turbo is milled out to a 57 trim. My question is what BOV are you using and is it vented to the atmosphere or recirculated? Mine is vented to atmoshere and under high boost the BOV acts like it is supposed to...
I believe it is all dependant on how much your machine shop takes off. But some good places to get parts are ebay (Just Kidding), try horsepowerfreaks.com, driftmotion.com and I think Titan sells head gaskets as well. The ARP's you get anywhere. But once you go to those other sites I have...
Sounds to me like you need to check the upper and lower ball joints and hell with a car that old you might as well just rebuild the whole front end and you will be much happier with it. That is what I did and now I have a tight suspension.
That or just buy a whole downpipe that attaches to the turbo. Then you eliminate the restrictive elbow. Of course if you have no money the downpipe might have to come later
You can get the shims from a dealer or go to a junk yard and pull several as the dealer told me that most toyotas use the same shim. Also I bought a special tool and redid all mine with out taking out the cam. The tool makes it so much easier. If I wasn't deployed I would sell mine to someone...
That wiring harness looks like it has seen better days. But hey not bad for the money. Wished I could find one here in SC for that. I have a white 89 hardtop that I autocross.
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