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It doesn't look like a rehone was done because you obviously don't know what a rehone is. Your cylinders were honed. Albeit a lousy job, the angle is barely visible. Why did you not have it bored out with the wear like it is? The vertical scratches are typical engine wear on high milage...

It won't run lean. If you have problems, it is because you are having problems. Not from the meter.

If you are using the GTE electronics, then you will have no issue. :)

I haven't seen a spec sheet. I can't imagine the gearing being the same.

It seems like there is an english written label on the ECU. It died? Did someobody open it and touch the board?

If you go MAFT-Pro, you don't need the Lex (1UZFE) meter. I suggest a new replica, but it isn't needed. I really like my SupraSport replica. It came with the bypass screw installed. You can still hit fuel cut with it, and need a tune if you are pushing high boost on a bigger turbo. The...

You don't need any coolant additives. If you spend the big bucks on Toyota over priced red you will be fine. It is a good product. It is also old, and not the best. Surely IJ or jetjock has mentioned G05. Use it, and a proper radiator, even stock in good condtion is acceptable. That coupled with...

Linked from the cooling system thread. Did you see the HKS T4 manifold replicas? Not that it matters now, just wondering if you investigated and what you might have learned. One company even had the short but tubular version. Not identical, just similar. I won't be using it, just wondering...

If you try and swap the low impedance high flow injectors into a GE that was a low impedance, the pulse width from the ECU is different. This is why the Lex mod works. The AFM signals still match up with the expected fuel. It won't with running a 440 injector in a GE.

Have you ever stuck your tongue on frozen metal pole?

Not that it matters now, but if you can thread the bolt into the hole of a bracket after you take it off, it keeps track of it when you don't. Next time.

It isn't untypical that they get mounted in front of the radiator and condensor. Perhaps yours came with mounts that are long straight plastic pieces that mount through the fins. That is where the airflow is afterall.

It could be that it is summer time.

Engine timing is off, to include the CPS position. That assumes the rebuild was done right and everything else was put together right.

Boost on GE? But yes. Engine load is an input factor for the base angle. Initinal timing + base + corrections = total advance. You never said what is wrong. You just asked about the airflow meter.

You don't want to do it like that anyway. If you managed to bend a five foot bar, either the bar is worthless and weak, or only an impact and its vibration will get it done. Attached is the tool used with a breaker bar when you don't have an impact.

Cam and crank time come from the cam position sensor. Assuming you mean ignition timing and not engine timing.

Is your's a 5 VC signal? I don't believe yours is 12V, but you never know. It isn't supposed to go up and down. Make sure the wiper isn't moving when you think it is holding still. Voltage goes down as the wiper opens, so resistance should go up as it opens.

Where do you find these books? Did you come across them just randomly in the EE business, or did you hunt them down? A great deal of information you put out is often not in any Toyota publication. And I have a nice library. And I don't mean the repair manual.

I am just trying to get information on something I never heard of.