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Yep. 1. Fix it. 2. Remove the interuption in the starter circuit.

You disable the light by taking out the bulb. Just don't expect the car to drive right, or pass any sort of inspection, let alone a strict one like IM240.

9.2 isn't high for pump gas, unless you are running high boost with an agressive tune.

3/4 16 allows a wide variety of filters better than the Toyota Thailand product.

The profec B spec 2, I don't know if there is a Spec 1, is only a solenoid in series between the compressor and wastegate actuator. And the controller for the solenoid. So no, it doesn't monitor Hz.

SP61GT has a GT "New Garrett Techology" compressor. That is why it hits so hard compared to a traditional T4. And I will say I like my Boss Jr that isn't on the SS website anymore. It responds quick. In fact, with the SS elbow, HKS downpipe and HKS turbo exhaust, my car goes into boost as fast...

I would rep you if I could. Thanks.

ebay doesn't manufacture anything. Im just sayin'...

That sounds nothing like valve tick... If the man with the stick is right, and the knock is under the cam cover at the manifold, it is probably the cam bearing. Sound carries through solids much better than air. So, you have to be sure on where the sound originates. An automotive stethescope...

I just want a part number. I had the dash out, and heard something drop. It was the bulb for the oil pressure gauge. Damn... Cygnus lists 5 part numbers, when I can't believe there are 5 different bulbs with 3 matching gauges size wise. I don't want to pull it out again until I have the bulb...

rpm= gear x ring and pinion x speed x 336/ tire diameter. Now you can figure it out by substituting a variable into the unknown, and do some 5th grade math.

You mean it won't start when hot?

Upper end knock could be a piston. Or a cam bearing. I have to hear it. People describe things, then I hear it, and ask "what were you hearing?" There is also pulleys. I know a really good technician that did a tear down, and the knock was the water pump. Oops.

Come again?!? You can't interchange caps between rods. I take you haven't assembled engines. (prepares for the "yes I did, and it didn't do anything")

The wire that sparked is the output for the alternator. It goes on the stud of the alternator. I don't know if you did the starter correctly. The wires are not interchangeable. The large wire goes directly to the battery, the smaller has a plug on it. That is the switch portion.

If it does it sometimes and not others, it is probably the wiring.

Two turbos respond slower than one. :) Highlighted is the key that others will skip over when you didn't mean it that way.

If you don't load the engine, you will not come out of vacuum. You are close to the numbers (vacuum) of a naturally aspirated engine. Either you have an intake leak still, or you aren't building a load for one reason or another.

Yeah, as indicated in OP. :dunce: If the wastegate is open, regardless of type, you will have a helluva time building boost.

Those canucks need everything... I think this is the amp. I don't have info about it. In fact, in my 1991 that doesn't have it, I don't even have a spare harness(pigtail) under the seat or carpet that I can find. If I get one, it (aftermarket) will hook into my new Alpine just fine...