Search results

That is correct...but, oil never thickens as it gets hot, the viscosity (as measured in centistrokes or cst) drops to the spec shown in the 2nd number on the bottle. In this case, a 30W. That's why looking at the data sheets is a good idea...they show the viscosity at 40 deg C and 100 deg C...

Aaron - are you guys going to install a Stinger in Bruce's car?

Reaper is right...it would be a good choice. Keep in mind the German Castrol is not "thin" by any stretch...in fact, at operating temp (100 deg C) it's at the top of a 30W viscosity spec...it's thicker than most 30W multi-grade oils out there. Don't let the "0W" throw you off...that's how...

Well...take a look at the summer temps here in AZ (115 deg in July). Ran it for two summers now...oil pressure stayed right where I like it ;)

Oh yes...that's pretty much all I do ;) They come out looking brand new, but a couple of words on the parts. All fittings, nuts, bolts, etc need to be removed. I would appreciate getting as much oil/grease off as possible...doesn't have to be perfect, but that clogs up my blaster. Get old...

Thanks...been doing 7M parts for a long time now ;) You're correct...the most benefit is doing exhaust items. I want to tell you though, the heat produced will turn downpipes, exhaust manifolds and turbine housings a titanium gray. Doesn't affect the thermal properties of the ceramic, but...

reaper - Pep Boys carries the PureOnes...NAPA Gold is a Wix. You can get filters on-line for good pricing. That's a great link! tissimo - if the M1 is cheaper where you are, use it vs the K&N...cellulose/synthetic blend media material is better quality. The PureOne filter flows plenty...

The Mobile 1 is a Champion filter with a cellulose/synthetic blend media...it's a very good filter, but you are going to pay double for it. If you like that filter, the K&N is also a Champion filter (same design) with a different media, but it flows a bit better than the M1 and is also...

I'm originally from Birmingham...right next door...Mom still lives there ;) Yes you can run a 10W-30 all year...if you want to make a winter change, go to a 0W or 5W-30 in the winter. If your motor has a lot of miles on it, go to a 10W-40 in the summer. The big reasons I like the German...

I was going to go into this long explanation of how a journal bearing works on automotive engines...it's a lot more complicated than it looks. But decided not to do that for fear of multiple eyes glazing over staring at the screen. ;) If you want to know more, Google boundary, hydrostatic...

Thanks guys...I appreciate the kudo's :icon_bigg

Welcome to the forum! I'm in the opposite situation...my son has little interest in working on cars. :3d_frown: If you haven't already, get a Toyota Repair & Service Manual (TRSM)...it's a must have when working on this car. Here's a site for the online version + a lot more...

^^^^ This man is correct...Dorman freeze plugs are the most common aftermarket plug. One problem, they are sized on the English (inch) system...Toyota plugs are metric. I measured both and the Dorman plugs are 0.005-0.007" smaller than Toyota. Caused me to blow the plug behind the water...

If you have a lift in the shop and a couple of helpers (a pair of tall screw jacks is a plus)...3 hours max. The biggest challenge in this case is getting the side drive shafts out of the way. You can disconnect them at the differential and pull all the way up...support w/ a wire. Then you...

Well actually I've never said "OMG you gonna burn up your bearings" or "you got rod knock because you used 50W"...as in the previous thread we were involved in concerning oil, I said (from what I've learned) that a 50W is not optimum for our motors. And the reasoning was due to the flow...

No debate necessary...the science of modern motor oil applies to any bearing in any engine. I've done a lot of research on the subject and try to present the info as I see it...no more, no less. You can take what I have to say with a grain of salt if you wish. Keep in mind the Mk III owner's...

Here's what I found out...Eneos is the marketing name for Nippon Oil (used be called Nippon Mitsubishi Oil). They are one of the big OEM suppliers to the Japanese automakers and provide the initial fill oil for Toyota. As far as the base stock for their oils, the website did not provide any...

I tried to find some info on that oil when you posted it the 1st time above...no luck w/ Google. Where do you buy it at? A 0W-50 is not very common...there has to be a lot of viscosity improvers in that oil to make it behave like a 0W cold and go to a 50W at operating temps. Not that...

Take a look at this data sheet on Mobile 1 EP: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp Mobile 1 15W-50 has a viscosity of 138 cst and 10W-30 has a viscosity of 66.1 cst at 40 deg C (104 deg F)...that puts the 15W-50 at over twice the thickness...

Been using 0W30 since I re-built my motor...JetJock has been using it for years. Runs great. The 50W oil is better is an "old school" thing from many, many years ago. Like I said, based on what I know about oil now, I feel the same way as you about a 50W multi-grade...it has no place in a...