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29... edit: beaten by the dubster ;)

What's even more sad is there are dozens more like it...

Your customer's engine idled poorly because he was using pirate air to feed it. It doesn't matter where the idle path source is as long as the air going through it has been metered. For example early 7Ms have an idle bypass passage right in the throttle body that works fine if one chooses to use...

Hello Robert. It's not possible for variations in ISCV plumbing to cause either of those codes. You have a bad AFM or wiring. Your symptoms also point to this. That both codes were set leads me to suspect wiring or a connector problem although it's certainly possible both sensors are dead...

While resistance testing is good for basic wiring checks it's pretty much useless for charging system work. What it comes down to is your meter is not capable of measuring the low resistances that impact circuit performance, especially in high current circuits. Voltage drop testing is the way...

^ Tis true. Much of the car is modular. I transplanted the ABS system from one into an older UK built vehicle. Same with the door lock system.

I've never had it (my car isn't so equipped) but the causes are just what the book says. The ECU expects to see a certain temp rise from the EGR sensor when EGR flow is commanded. A lack of that rise could be electrical in nature (bad sensor, open wiring) or a lack of EGR flow to cause it (inop...

Over 400 mph. A week ago. Wasn't actually in contact with the highway but pretty damn close. Does that count? ;)

OK, just curious. Good luck with it. Btw I'm also a Masshole...South Shore born and raised.

Recently set mine on fire with my plasma cutter. Piss me off. It wasn't even on the car... Btw why on Earth would you change your oil every 1500 miles?

^ Exactly. I'm puzzled as to why anyone would feel this has anything to do with decreasing the chances of blowing a properly installed head gasket. It doesn't make sense to correlate the relatively minor differences in engine bay and coolant temps the cover provides with such a failure. Nor does...

^ Finally. Took less time than I thought it would...

If that's the case it needs to be connected to either E1 or chassis ground. Same difference.

Dunno. What pin on which connector does it go to? Might be part of a KS rewire. Maybe a ground for the shield. Hard to tell from the pic.

Loss of power to the ECU won't prevent the oil gage from working. That's powered by the gage fuse, as are most of the instruments in the cluster. Since the MIL is also powered by the gage fuse you might want to check that fuse and circuit.

"Primum non nocere" ;) You should not have had to remove the connectors to ID any pins but I guess that's moot now. Anyway, someone's been in there. Looks like a KS rewire was done. I'd forget about that for now and just focus on getting power back to the ECU. If you confirm power but still...

Well, that's two down (Jdub and AJ)....anyone else willing to learn the hard way? CRE? Kck?

Fwiw the Body Electrical Manual (which covers the climate system in detail) shows pressure distribution vectors on the car. The base of the hood/windshield is quite a bit positive. One reason the fresh air inlets are there...

^ Best place for it too, as the sender should be on the engine side of the t-stat. The stock gage and ECU sensor are there for a reason...

Makes you wonder eh? It should also make you wonder what the root cause of his blowing the low speed coil all those times was ;)