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It might be a wiring issue to the TPS... HTH

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis36200.html This tool's description also says "push or tap to install" Does it work that easy?? I just removed all of my valvetrain in about 20 minutes, using the magnet-in-the-sparkplug-socket trick with great results. But I'm not sure of the easiest way to...

Oh, I don't think I need 550's as far as my power goals are concerned, at least not yet. I would like to get about 350rwhp. I'm just trying to figure out a safe way to keep my max boost around 15psi without hitting fuel cut. I currently hit FC around 13psi.

I had a question about injector sizing: 1. If the stock fuel pressure is say, 38 psi at idle, and I up it with my AFPR to 48, that's an increase of ~25%. Does this mean, that I can safely switch my MAFT to the 550cc injector setting(a 25% increase), even though I'm using the 440 injectors...

I'm imagining its the set that bolts to the intake, under runner #6.

Yeah- the leak won't be open at anything other than positive boost. Pull all of your rubber intercooler hosea. You'll find a bad one.

I have had material welded into the keyway before, no problems. We welded up some material into the 'smoothed' side, then used a die grinder to cut the wall vertical again. It made a VERY strong weld, and held up perfectly. The best part, of course, is you don't have to remove the crank or the...

Verify that that spark valley is completely clean. If there is any oil/ water in there, the plug wire will ground/ spark to the cylinder head, instead of the spark plug. HTH

Honestly, it sounds like the timing is waay off, and that with the EFI fuse in, it's creatin cumbustion that works against the engine's normal rotation, and that would explain why it cranks easier without the EFI fuse in. As for how this happened, I only have one possible explanation: The CPS is...

Dude- I might be in touch with you about that in a couple of weeks. :icon_bigg

I think that they are all the same. And I think that the only safe way to loosen the clearances is by swapping shims.

Those are the pistons I bought for a cheap rebuild- Don't have them in yet, so I can't say about them. PS- The top is anodized. Don't know how well it holds up, but I was reading on a couple of sites that some manufacturers do this to reduce the effects of detonation. I guess it reduces some of...

Well then, I'm confused, Jeff. I have an 88 NA, and they are very different from each other: The passenger side inner tie rod incorprates the simmy damper mount, and because of this, that side uses a boot that goes from the inner mount to the damper mount, which has equal width ends. This one...

FYI- The driver's side boot (the one with the small end) does NOT fit properly. The large end is too large, and I had to tighten down the zip tie to keep it on. I dunno if it's the wrong part altogether, or if it's for a different year.

"and pay no attention to my wifes bright ass pink neons in the one pic.... thats the car i have to drive until i get another supra.." Yeah, but WHY are the neons on???

They must be good- they're sold out of all the gauges I would want...

Well, It looks like both sides are different: The part numbers The top of each Bottom Hopefully, I'll get to replace all the tie rods and these boots this week.

I dunno- but I ordered a separate left and right part, they cost a different amount per side. I'll let you all know when they arrive.

Use a relay. I use two separate relays on a double socket for my FAL's.

Did you read the first post? I just ordered through RockAuto and saved about $45. Thanks for that info, Supra90turbo.