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Might want to do a compression test to see if you got blow by on the rings or cooked a valve.

Both myself and Piratetip have a ShaftMasters 1 piece aluminum DS...mine is an auto, his is on an R-154. We did the calculations to determine critical speed on the these shafts using the actual size/material...critical speed (where the shaft could fail) is up in the 12,000 rpm range for both...

:withstupi ;) Haven't seen a Ross piston fail, unless it was due to the installer or it was run lean and melted the top. Have a look at CP pistons...Suprarich stocks them. JE's would be my 2nd choice.

Shockproof is more oriented toward racing trannys...the Superlight has the correct viscosity, but thins out quite a bit warm. It is designed for differentials under heavy load for extended periods. It is also a GL-5...it has twice the extreme pressure additives as a GL-4. Read...

Red Line MT90 works great in the R154 (and other manual trannys), regardless of mileage. I highly recommend it. You have to be careful what gear oil you use in a tranny...many (like Royal Purple) also have the friction modifier in the formula. It makes the oil too "slick"...manual trannys need...

It's hard to say, but I'll bet he bored it without the main bearing caps torqued down to spec...the cylinder walls on a 7M are on the thin side anyway and can be distorted when you start torquing on it. Especially when you go to the larger oversize bore. Make sure he uses a torque plate and...

True statement, but the Ford gear oil seems to work better on a LSD with a lot of miles on it. Red Line can induce chattering on a high mileage differential.

Not good! No wonder you got blow by so fast.

One other piece of advice...check your oil weekly at minimum. The turbo uses oil...1/2 quart in 3 weeks is common. In fact, fill it to the top mark on the dipstick and add an extra quart...cheap insurance w/ no impact on the engine. Low oil is the #1 cause of rod knock...it can slosh around...

Could be a couple of things: 1) CPS o-ring is leaking oil down on the manifold. 2) Coolant lines going to the turbo are leaking coolant on the manifold. If this one is true...you need to fix ASAP or you will overheat in just a few minutes. 3) Valve cover gaskets are leaking oil on the...

I'm thinking the Ross pistons *should* work, but actual measurements will tell-the-tale. If you plan on coating the pistons, def use 0.0035". If not, I would lean more toward 0.004" to account for expansion. You may get a small amount of slap (Ross skirts are fairly short) at start, but...

Take a look at these specs...take the block to the machinist to make sure the ones you're looking at will work. The 2nd sheet list the piston to wall clearance as 0.006"...that is too large. Use 0.004" http://www.rosspistons.thinkhost.com/uploads/toyota.pdf...

The higher compression pistons are great for bottom end, but you risk detonation at boost due to dynamic compression. You'll have to pay close attention to the tune and run premium gas ;) Sounds like the block was bored without a torque plate and/or without the main bearing caps torqued down...

Interesting...JE lists the CR at 8.8:1. That's quite a bit higher than what I was looking at (another web site)...you might want to consider how much boost you're planning on ;) JE pistons are significantly lighter than Ross. You'll have to take the block to the machinist and have him...

So...this is a 2J? Would have been good to know...esp since this is in the 7M GTE Tech Section ;)

Cyro - Ross are 8.5:1 - JE are 8.4:1. You might be thinking of Wisco...they are a 9.0:1 CR. Both are excellent pistons. The JE's will require the max over bore you can safely do...it will be the last time that block will be bored. To use the Ross, you will need to check your cyn...

Yep...big difference. Ceramic chrome looks more like a high polished aluminum, only it's a LOT easier to keep clean and shiny. It will never have the same "bling" as chrome plate though. The big advantage of the ceramic is the heat resistance, especially on exhaust parts.

Came to the same conclusion as JJ...the typical motor does not care what *brand* oil is used. I look for a stout add pack in a 0W or 5W-30 oil...the Grp IV and V syn's hold up better in a turbo motor IMO. In the case of Pennzoil Platinum (a Grp III), it holds up as good as any of the "true"...

A cooler like this one would be more than adequate: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D1005&N=700+115&autoview=sku Or, just use a stock 7M oil cooler (flush it out) like Andy did...it would work great too ;)

Understand...I should have said "temps over 450 deg F accelerate the hardening effect (followed by cool down)". It would take quite a bit of time for the temps the cooler is exposed to harden it to the point of failure with no structural stress present (other than 50 psi internal pressure)...