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If the window channels/ regulator don't hold the window tight, they will rock back and forth at any intermediate position, and the fluffy things won't hold tight except at full up. Atl least that's my experience.

I replace all my fluffy things, and it didn't help. The real problem is the window regulator. I need to remove mine and see where exactly the freeplay has developed.

Small update with pics to follow- I just dropped off the freshly-decked block for boring and honing, now that I have the Probe forged pistons. The block should be done in about a week. Then I can FINALLY start assembling the short block. Also, I've picked up a Long brand stacked plate-type oil...

say what?

True- I may switch over, once I go to a T-4.

You can get OK stuff off Ebay, just make sure that the gaskets you buy are not just the thin paper style. This intake gasket is crap: This set looks better- rediculously low price...

Go outside right now and retorque your HG to about 70-75 lbs. The spec is 58, and it's wrong. That's one of the main reasons why it blows.

LOL!- TRUE that. I've replace all of the front studs in both hubs, because I replaced both front bearings/ seals. It IS a bitch to disassemble the ABS hubs, because that big-ass nut on the back doesn't wanna come off without airtools, and the spindle itself will NOT come out without an SST, or...

Flush the fluid as stated above, and remove & turn all 4 rotors.

Awesome work man- I really like the detail of your reports.

This is a dumb, but pertinent question- IS THE FAN TURNING THE RIGHT DIRECTION? If you wired it backwards, everytime you get to op temps, it'll turn on the fan, and that will pull air from the hot engine-side back through the rad, or if you're driving, it'll block air from coming in, like an...

Yeah, well.....the air going through the upper grill will tend to go to the path of least resistance, so it'll go up towards...OK- so there's a seal around the front of the hood, so it's not going to go there, but when it GETS to the seal, it really doesn't feel like turning around, so it goes...

Your rotors have probably rusted to the point that they interfere with the pads. kinda like, they pads didn't move towards the rotor, but the rotors "grew" towards the pads. Make sense? Sounds dumb, but spray some wd40 onto the rotors, and next to the brake pads. You'll want to 'degrease' it off...

I've put about 20,000 miles on my stock CT. Dunno the miles prior to this, as I bought the whole motor used. No oil, no shaft play. On 12psi, but I only hit that about once every two days(I'm a pussy).

I'm planning for a maximum of 400rwhp, and my build is fairly mild: Ported/polished head w/ comp cams springs Probe pistons, Titan 1.4 mhg, resized rods, ARP studs Stage 3 clutch, aluminum flywheel/ driveshaft (with TWO safety loops, IJ) MAFT, upgraded oil cooler...

Can't remember the site that I bought mine at, but this rad looks pretty...well... rad...Plus it's at a great price. If this product had been available 2 years ago, I would have bought it: http://www.autozconcept.com/product_info.php?products_id=783 Fan clutch...

I concur. There was some discussion a few years ago about the castings being slightly different from year to year, but no differences between turbo and NA.

How old is the radiator? This exact problem used to happen to me, with a 5yr old radiator, and that's really not that old. I would drive along, no problems for as long as I wanted. But as soon as I turned on the AC, I would begin to get a temp rise within 5 minutes. If I didn't do anything...

It's the starter contacts. There's a couple of threads on here that give you the part numbers you need to replace these, or just get a reman from one of the parts stores.

OK, resent my email to their website email address.