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It's pushed back in by ambient pressure because of the gradient that develops. No sucking goes on. It's against the laws of physics for low pressure to move matter. As in not possible...

Fwiw I've used MTL for 20 years. In fact other than the original factory fill my tranny has never had anything else in it, including MT 90. Zero problems thus far...

Here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 To check the wiring unplug the connector and short E2 to IDL. If the code goes away the wiring if OK. And fwiw the idle speed control system will not operate when a TPS caused code 51 is present...

While a bulb check is always a good idea in the interest of accuracy the LFM doesn't monitor these lamps...

The the main FL is bad or the battery connections are bad. That's assuming the battery is good, which it ought to be. Easy enough to check...

That's just outright BS...

Look here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=18 Pull out the headlight relay and jumper pins 4 and 5 together with a paper clip. Turn on the headlight switch. They won't come up but do they come on? Do you have a meter?

That cover only needs machining on Briggs and Strattons ;)

If the sensor is good it must be the wiring. And fwiw a fault in that circuit should only effect starting and warm up. Once the engine is hot it should run fine unless the sensor is shifted but you say it's OK. Might want to unplug it after the engine is hot to make sure. If the problem persists...

Either the alt or main fusible link is blown. Most likely the alt. Best to measure them. When working with electricity you can't always go by appearance because it's typically invisible...though I've felt it's presence on a number of occasions ;)

A common problem I've seen with those are missing heat shields. An OEM hose with the shield in place will last a long time. I've got 60K on mine and it was still OK last I checked. I'm not gonna push it much further though...

Probably neodymium. I've got one from a disc drive stuck on my oil pan. Be careful with those things ;) I suggest something a bit smaller for socket use although the inserts made for the job are cheap. Around 10 bux for a set.

A small rare earth magnet inside the socket. Or just buy the magnetic inserts sold for the purpose...

No, it won't do the same. Use a light. Or disconnect the battery and resistance test to ground. That's some good stuff right there :)

http://tinyurl.com/2bb8jf ;)

Sigh. I knew it was a waste of time so I'll leave it at this and move on: my 22 year old *stock* pump with 160K miles on it pressure relieves at 60 psi when running on 9 volts. Just checked it...

Pump relief pressure is easily checked by jumpering the fuel pump on and pinching the return line closed. Don't do it for longer than necessary. If it won't do 50 under those conditions something is wrong. That something doesn't have to be the fuel pump either...

6800, 8751....sorry, wrong on both counts. "I've tried EVERYTHING to get an actual datastream from the diagnostic port" I'm confused. Why would you try so hard to get data from a place it's obviously not present to begin with? Yes, I know Vf is more than it appears to be but there's still...

Well, to each his own. I've found dozens of leaks that weren't visible without dye and I've yet to be stumped by any leak. After all this is hardly rocket science. However since I've never made my living as a mechanic or worked on thousands of leaks I'll defer to your experience :nono...

Nothing should leak when cold. And Shaeff is right: dye in the way to go in these kinds of situations. I leave it in my system full time.