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Your fuel pressure is only 26psi? I have mine set to about 35. I thought stock was in the low 30's. Someone smarter than me please chime in on this. I use a gap of .28 on NGK coppers. No problems here.

And yes, I am guessing, I know. I agree that a dyno tune is the only way to know if the boost level is safe.

It's not that it might be rodnock, it IS rodknock. 3K rpm rattles are one of the legendary signs of this. Of course I could be wrong, but I'd really bet my own money on this. Did you ever ask him WHY he did this? I mean, If my buddy got a cool, high revving car, yeah- I'd rev it up(with...

You can go as high as 15 psi, but most people say that the CT26 runs out of efficiency range around 12-15psi. That being said, I run mine at a max of 13psi, but I do have a Walbro an AFPR, and a MAFT. Without at least an AFPR, I would be concerned with trying to ensure that the A/F ratio was...

Doh. -1 for me not paying attention.

I say save the headlights for driving lights. I forget which front spoiler it is, but it has round driving light cutous, and I think they'd work in that nicely. You guys know which one I'm talking about- someone toss up a pic.

I used these. http://store.classicgarage.com/20h4recheadc.html They seem to be like E-codes as far as the lens pattern, but cheaper. AND they are glass lenses, not this crap plastic you see most of the time on Ebay. As they are glass/metal, you don't have to worray as much about higher...

OEM's are about $5 each. I replaced all 5 on each front hub for a total of $14, from Oreilly Auto, when I replaced the front wheel bearings.

Trust me- If you get the temp switch(as I did) from Summit, get the higher temp unit. otherwise, your fans will run continuously from 5 minutes after you start the car, till 45 minutes after you shut if off, and your battery WILL die. The problem is- the fan switch should not be located at the...

Um- I didn't see it mentioned... WHAT springs and shocks did you use???

Under the dash.

I have a full thermostatic oil cooler circuit, but I left it isolated for the breakin period(and I haven't been boosting much during this time). I didn't have an oil cooler circuit at all on the last 7MGTE, and the oil pressures were very normal on that one.

I have a similar problem with my setup- low oil pressure after warm-up. roughly 25psi@2800 rpm cruise. I have removed the oil filter mount, and have a 7mge oil boss in it's place, and so that's not the issue, and I shimmed the oil pump spring by about 5mm. I have only put on about 500 miles...

The cam update is good to hear. You should be able to do way better than 16.1@85mph. I would expect that once it's dialed in right, you should get more like low 15's to high 14's. I'm excited for you, man.

I dunno if I'll be at the Sept. meet, but definately the October meet.

Are you getting a slight 'bump' in power around 4200rpm? that should be when ACIS kicks in. If you are shifted too low in the power band, you might not be getting much help from ACIS, either.

Well then, IJ's suggestion IS the answer. Buy yourself some washers.

Let's say I just told you I did this to a 7MGE. Why would I put a $700 damper on that? But since you ask, AND since the keyway lasted for the remainder of the engine's life(till it was swapped out for a turbo 2 yrs later), then i guess I'd say yes. Like I said, most people weren't going to like...

If that doesn't work, I have a question- when you boost up, does it take awhile to get to 16psi? I had the same problem, where i had set my MBC to 12 psi, and it started slowly coming down to a max of 9psi, and it took longer and longer to spool up. I found out that my cat was WAY clogged, and...

I know this answer won't make most people on here happy, but way back when, I had the same exact problem with my 7MGE. I had someone weld on material(Chris was his name- drove a 7MGTE MKII in GA) to the crank while the engine was in the car. We took out the radiator and he MIG welded in some...