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When I did my conversion, I removed the motor arms, and cut them about 1" shorter. HOWEVER, It's not really necessary to cut them shorter, although it is necessary to relocate the ballmounts(for the actuator rods) inward that same 1". I just cut them shorter to make it cleaner. And you don't...

looking forward to more pics!

As far as I know, the ONLY differences between the Cressy and Supra blocks is the oil pump and pan. people use the Cressy engines all the time for NA Supra use. PS- I've used the NPR pistons before and had no issues. I would recommend having the rods resized while your block is at the shop...

I used a 30amp relay for each of my two flexalite's. Before I had them wired to directly run off a temp swith, but that would kill the switch in no time. Then I got smart, and went back to stock fan/ clutch/ shroud, and have never regretted it.

Okay, okay...I forgot- Crab cleaner is for traction issues. You use it when you start going sideways. I MEANT carb cleaner. :biglaugh:

Hey dude- Be advised; it looks like the engine you're building is out of a Cressida, not a Supra. The only issue is that you'll have to replace the oil pump with the Supra type, and use the oil pan from your blown motor. The oil pickup on the Cressida's pump, and the shape of the oil pan would...

Normal idle is supposed to be around 700-800 rpm. Another way to check for a vacuum leak, is to idle the engine, and spray a very small amount of starting fluid or crab cleaner around the throttle body, upper-to-lower intake mating area, and where the lower intake runners attach to the head. If...

and this all took place on 124st street, you say? :momaru: Nice kill.

I have a very similar problem; When i come to a stop, and then begin moving again, I get a metallic 'click' that I can hear from the front suspension, and can feel it slightly in the steering wheel. I've checked the swaybar links, and the inner and outer tierod ends are recent, so I'm having...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56843

Ok- fair enough. timer reset to a 20 minute response. Thanks guys.

Hey guys- Just wanted to know the bolt size for the LSD differential- The one you remove to fill it. It looks like maybe around an m24? If you know- shout it out! Thanks. :icon_bigg

redline from 72,000, to 75,000? Don't think I wanna spin any motor that fast. Actually, the early 7m's ALL came with the 6M crank. The later motors came with the 7M. The consensus is that the 6M gives you a slightly higher redline as it is lighter, but the 7M crank is fully-counterbalanced, so...

I use Neolite housings, and they seem to give off a proper light pattern. http://www.classicgarage.com/20h4recheadc.html

Does anyone know what the Shore/hardness is on the bushings that they've used? Trying to find out what hardness has been used by the various manufacturers.

Sounds like a short between the parking light power lead and the brake light lead. Dunno if it's in your TLFS or in the wire.

Yes, got it- risk. I'm just saying I guess I got lucky, as the first time I removed all the upper A-arms and improperly torqued them was about 12 years and 140,000 miles ago. And yeah- I think you're right about the aftermarket items, because the inner sleeves look to be what locks up tight...

Well, that's how it seemed to work to, yes. As for tearing the bushings, I'm surprised that I haven't- After replacing the springs/ struts years ago, I'm sure I torqued all of the A-arms down at a fully-extended position. However- the bushings looked fine when I checked them. Now what about...

I was reinstalling them today, and the TSRM says to torque the A-arm pivot bolts once the suspension has the car's weight on it. I guess I'm wondering- do the A-arms actually move up and down in their suspension travel by pivoting along the pivot bolt, or do they simply move by flexing the bushings?

I was going to ask- wouldn't a flat black powdercoat have a more durable finish than most spray paints?