Ok...one more time. You will not hear the fuel pump until you turn the key and the starter engages. This is normal.
The fuel pressure tests are in the TSRM pages FI 71-73...starts here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71
Note: On page 73 fuel pressure...
A rising rate AFPR increases fuel pressure 1:1 with boost...it is the type the 7M uses.
The air volume the Lex allows in is ~25% more...the 550 injectors are 25% larger. They balance out...it's an old school mod the stock ECU can handle without additional electronic fuel control. An...
Does it over heat at random and push coolant out of the resv?
If not, I'm looking for a driving situation that causes it every time. (i.e stop/go, highway, etc.)
Any white smoke out of the tail pipe?
When it over heats, does the temp gauge go all the way up or just part way (i.e where is...
Without a Lex AFM or the ability to convert to speed density, there's really no point in running 550's. You'll just run very rich...even if you drop pressure with an AFPR.
The only thing the 180 stat is going to do is delay coolant getting to ops temp...it will not cause harm, but you'll be in warm-up enrichment longer (i.e. run rich). I always cut the jiggle valve off to get a bit of flow and prevent any back pressure in the cooling system.
That's the biggest reason (besides freezing) you want to run at least a 50/50 coolant/water mix to inhibit rust/scale build-up.
I've been considering HOAT type coolant...appears to be superior to the usual EG based stuff.
Read this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39219
IMO, it's really not suitable for a MK III due to the higher coolant temps...the ECU will pull timing over 210 deg F.
I assume you're using a Lex AFM with those 550's or converted to speed density (I hope so).
With the Lex/550, TRSM fuel pressures still apply...33-40 psi vac line disconnected, 23-30 psi with the vac line connected:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73
You sir are dumping perfectly good, expensive oil (after an initial break-in, of course). Not sure why you do, but I suspect it's the result of one or more of the many oil myths out there. This oil change "technique" is a total waste of time/money...it serves absolutely no useful purpose on a...
Pretty much dead on ;)
The nut does have friction mating with the stud threads, but it is less than what you see with a bolt. Both have friction where they mate with the washer. The use of moly is a huge factor in reducing friction. This is a good read (especially under "Using a Torque...
Actually Hommer, once the stock head bolts are taken up to 70 ft/lbs they will hold quite well. If you back them out to replace you *could* induce a failure. Personally, I wouldn't fix something that's not broke ;)
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