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1) It's from Harbor Fright. 2) What wattage is it? 3) What you're calling "bubble soldering" is bad technique. 4) Did I mention it's from Harbor Fright? 5) For auto use one of the Master Appliance models. Specifically the 40si or 100si. Lots of power, adjustable, no electricity...

Lmfao. At least I got it. You're a sick man Colin ;)

I'd imagine you'd need the rear speed sensor but until you come up with some valid codes I can't tell. edit: beat by the dog...

Page BE 55 involves the power seat. BR 53 involves the ABS and your codes don't jive with that. One of us is confused... edit: Lucky I took a lot of time to check or you'd have looked dumb ;)

No offense there Sparky but you seem kinda helpless. Just go to the store and buy one. And while I'm also a proponent of jiggle valve cutting it's not really required. You lose the bubble breaking action it was designed to provide. It jiggles for a reason you know. Not to mention it's sort of...

Yep, it's probably why Victor Charlie's timing has gone Tango Uniform :)

Appears he didn't ;) I'm trying to help you but I don't have much time. I'm not supposed to be here and come midnight I go back to being a pumpkin. If the cluster sensor wasn't working you'd get an engine code so it appears yours is OK. And when I said "diags" I meant the cruise control...

Good luck. When you jumper the diag block the ECU sets idle speed and prevents the ESA system from working. These things will only happen if the idle contact in the TPS is closed. Your code 51 implies it isn't. I say implied because 51 can be set by a couple of other things that don't prevent...

As I suspected. Timing can't be done if 51 is set, at least if it's been set by the TPS. No wonder your timing is goofy...

20 questions eh? Ok, I'll take the same two as before...

If your AC is busted and you don't plan on fixing it (not to smart imo but it's your car) then feel free to bypass. You can block the vacuum line where it tees into the intake manifold. Not that you couldn't have eyeballed that yourself...

About what, the cluster speed sensor? Do you have an engine code for it? Have you check it using the cruise control diags?

While the Power Probes are nice tools for simple stuff (I own a PPII and it is handy) they can't beat a full featured DMM for serious work. The starter relay mod involves sending current directly from the battery to the starter solenoid via an added relay piloted by the original starter...

No, not at that boost level. Nor do I think your starting problems are ignition related. And did you check for codes before setting timing?

I realize this isn't going to be much help but normally it pops right off. I used to take mine off every year to clean out the drain path. Sounds like your clips are jammed from being forced downwards.

Just FYI: First, there is no spring in the ISCV and even with the check valve missing it's position can't be changed by airflow. Second, stock boost can be achieved with the check valve missing. It's no different than running with a blown stock bypass valve, which has more conductance than the...

You'll lose about 8-10 F of AC goodness at max cold but otherwise you won't notice. Remember, the climate control system was designed to maintain a set temp and the coolant valve is always open when doing that. As CRE said the only time it's closed is when the head unit is set to 65 and even...

It's OK...CRE likes to be tired. Tuckered me out just reading it ;)

The possibly was inferred. Any one of those things could be at fault. That's why the positive side is a bit more difficult to troubleshoot than the ground side. Still, using a meter allows you to split the circuit in half and then in half again, thus zeroing in on the culprit. The only...

Err, ok... Put one meter lead on the ECU ground pin and the other on battery negative. Set the meter to it's DC millivolt scale and turn the ignition key on. If you read more than 100 mv move the battery meter lead forward along the ground path until the drop is acceptable. The problem lies...