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One thing I want to point out about oil change intervals...like a lot of other things, it depends. When I say this mileage for this type oil, I'm assuming a well running motor. If you have coolant, excessive condensation, fuel from blow-by, etc in the oil...that changes things...a lot...

Thanks for the clarification JJ. I've been reading up on HOAT coolants...I thought that it was EG based, but that appears to be where the simularity ends. HOAT looks like it would be an excellent, long lasting coolant. I do know one thing for sure...Dex (OAT) coolant is one we don't want to...

What happens is the aluminum head expands at a different rate than the steel block. This puts additional stress on the head bolts and creates movement between the head and block decks. ARP limits their head bolts to 75 ft/lbs of torque for this exact reason...studs do not have this limit. It...

Are you talking about the aluminum overflow tanks? If so, they are fine to use...most guys get one because a bigger IC won't fit with the stock tank. It needs to have the same capacity and be plumbed so the line from the radiator is near the bottom of the tank so it works like stock. You...

Don't look at it that way...water converted to steam removes the max heat possible. Under high presssure, even more so. The problem is designing piping to handle the pressure and a condensor to convert it back to water...way too big (and heavy) for a car.

Nicely done Jag ;)

American Idoling?

Yeah...you can get both cam covers off with out removing the TB or manifold, no problem. And you can re-use the cam cover gaskets. If the cams are in the way for the re-torque, just rotate the crank with a 19mm socket and breaker bar...the cams will rotate too. When you put everything back...

You gotta keep something in mind about me...I'm pretty anal about this kind of thing. A LOT of attention to detail. It's not as bad to do as you think...and, no, you don't have to take everything apart to do a re-torque after the motors been run a bit. All you do is use a breaker bar and...

You didn't read the ARP link ;) The ARP recommendation is a bit over kill IMO...what I do is torque the ARPs down to 70 ft/lbs (4-5 passes), back off a 1/2 turn or so...go to 75 ft/lbs (2 passes), back off 1/2 turn...go to 80 ft/lbs (ARP stud torque spec, 2 passes). All using the TSRM...

Bad fuel pump relay :naughty:

No Lex AFM, 550's and AFPR? (I ask because you have a Walbro) What kind of WB? What are your AFRs at cruise and under boost? The stock location is not ideal, but it should not affect readings. It's more a sensor longevity issue due to heat. Just so you know, O2 AFR feedback (closed...

It fires when the ECU sends the appropriate signals to the ignitor...and that's going to depend on Ne, G1 and G2 signals from the CPS. After start, the ECU also adjusts basic ignition timing according to various sensors. Just set your timing according to the pic I posted...then, set basic...

This is excellent...moved to the Reference section.

14.7 is a stoichiometric mixture...the stock ECU attempts to achive this AFR when not under load in an attempt for the most complete burn possible. At idle or cruise, this is perfect, neither lean nor rich...in practice you see the range I posted, mostly due to modifications. My car has...

I'm not flaming you...what you're saying is not based on fact. Have not seen a single one yet. And, when someone comes on here spouting "facts" without backing them up, you can expect this every time. Back up what you say and we will have no problem. I may be a mod, but you can ask anyone...

Ummm...on the stock ECU, it is NOT normal to run lean at idle. 13-14 during warm-up enrichment...14.5-15.5 at ops temp. If he has fuel mods, fuel piggyback, or a stand alone...well, that's different. Why do you think I asked about his mods? Why speculate?

I've researched oils...a lot ;) What is obvious is you have NFI of what you're talking about. Everything you just said is pure speculation...no basis in fact...at all. Additives don't "lose its charactaristics" after 1000 miles...or 5000 miles. Only an oil analysis will tell you what...

Well...I would have the system pressure tested to make sure there are no leaks. Things to check: - Your radiator may be getting clogged up since it's the orginal - Make sure your fan clutch is operating normally...you should hear it kinda loud when you 1st crank and after 45 sec or so it...