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The factory diversity antenna (which is separate from the defroster and not only for AM) works fine in urban areas...

Yes. It works well, especially for a convoluted system. Bubbles prefer to go up you know...

I believe Motive sells a universal fitting that clamps over the master cylinder. Although vacuum (say with a Mityvac) works OK too. Anything is better than the old fashioned way...

Thanks for all the input. Went and saw it in 3D Imax. Liked it. Didn't think it was overly long and couldn't care less what message it tried to send. It's just friggin' movie. A good escape from reality, something I feel movies should be. I suspect it's real legacy will be from other film...

Lots of bleeders out there. Motive is popular: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ Or make one from a garden sprayer. Fwiw I pressure bleed from the wheel, the way it's done on aircraft.

Yeah, I have a clue and so do you. It's right there in your post: A 51 won't cause the MIL to do that...

^ Lmao. No one except you of course...

Surprised there's been no thread on this yet. Anyone seen it? Should I piss away the $16 or not?

The RTFM comment must have gone over your head ;) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=128

Nah, I just know how to RTFM ;)

There is a major ground point (Ground Point F) located on the left side of the radio area: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=28

Which screw? If you mean the throttle stop screw it should be set per the TSRM. If you mean the idle air bypass screw found on early model year throttle bodies it should be fully seated.

No. When starting throttle body bypass air is provided by the ISCV, which stepped wide open on the previous engine shutdown just for that reason. That said it's imperative the throttle stop be set before any adjustments are made to the TPS. The order of adjustment is 1) throttle stop 2) TPS 3)...

In one post he links to the TSRM procedure for setting the throttle stop, then asks if the engine has one, then asks why the TSRM makes no mention of it. I'm confused...

^ The car came stock with sealed beams but many people change them to H4 housings. It appears he's asking about the fog light fuse, the location which is clear in both the TSRM and TEWD...

Post hoc ergo propter hoc. But hey, as long as you're happy....

Unless someone previously over torqued them. But yeah, you're right. I reused mine on a MHG and they were still going strong 13 years later. There were never retorqued either. Torqued correctly when the head was put on and that was it...

Top three? 1) Cooling system. NHTSA research shows the single most common automotive breakdown in the US continues to involve cooling system failure. 2) Do good electrical maintenance, something most people completely ignore. It's not called EFI for nothing you know. 3) Inspect and replace...

Idle is wrong. That may be a clue. TB may need adjustments, especially the dashpot and throttle stop. TPS may also be outta whack. I don't see mention of code checks in this thread but I smell a 51...

Looks right. Somewhat of a bear to change though. Might want to check out Driftmotion's replacement line. See the vendor section...